Dehours: ‘This is what grower champagne is all about’ – Julia Harding MW

Dehours Champagne

‘This is what grower champagne is all about’
– Julia Harding MW

‘Jérôme Dehours is one of the godfathers of Meunier; his style is lean, pure, precise and fresh… Champagne from Dehours are first class food wines.’ – Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate

Small, family-run grower Champagne labels offer superb value and fascinating, contrasting styles. Champagne Dehours is one such producer, and we’ve been their number one fan since we started importing their wines six years ago!

Pinot Meunier, a red grape, forms the basis of Dehours’ Champagnes. The style is rich and bold with vibrant energy – the result of a very low dosage, from brut to extra-brut. The Grande Réserve NV is our go-to from the range. A blend of 70% Meunier along with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it’s based on the 2020 vintage with 39% reserve wine from a solera started in 1998. The cuvée offers a floral bouquet with apple and savoury notes – really shining after a few years in the cellar. Vinous call this new release a ‘classy, wonderfully understated, airy NV’. Going full Meunier, look to the Terre de Meunier Extra Brut NV. It’s red-fruited and spicy, with a lean, bony structure and fantastic length.

Finally, their idiosyncratic Oeil de Perdrix* Extra Brut Rosé NV has developed quite the underground following. Also a Meunier-led, three-way blend, it’s rich yet light on its feet. This new release is ‘spellbinding in its beauty’ and ‘an absolute joy’, concludes Galloni. We can never get enough, so act fast!

Founded in the 1930s, Dehours & Fils is run by third-generation vignerons, siblings Jérôme Dehours and Caroline Laisne. They farm 42 parcels over 14.5 hectares split between the villages of Mareuil-le-Port (Montagne de Reims); and Oeuilly, Cerseuil and Troissy (Vallée de la Marne).

After his father’s untimely death, Jérôme was too young to take over operations and the family farm was sold. He managed to buy back the name and property and started again in 1996. Since then, a sort of revival has taken place at Dehours. They work manually, organically and biodynamically in the vineyards and focus on natural techniques in the cellar.

Don’t miss out on the last of their single vineyards, made purely from the perpetual reserves! Dehours La Croix Joly Extra Brut NV and Dehours Brisefer Extra Brut NV.

*‘Oeil de Perdrix’ refers to the pale orange/pink colour of a partridge’s eye. The style is believed to have originated in the Middle Ages in Champagne.

Payment methods
Copyright © 2024 - Wine Cellar