Piedmont: ‘One of the most dynamic regions in the world’ – Vinous

Dear *|FNAME|*,

Interest in Piedmont’s Nebbiolos has never been higher, and Barolo is the region’s undisputed king. Barolo is ‘one of the world’s great red wines’, says Decanter, and is often compared to Grand Cru Burgundy. These are powerful, fragrant reds that are light in colour, have great acidity, and are rich in tannin. This makes them incredible food wines and gives them immense ageability – often for several decades.

GD Vajra is among Wine Cellar’s happiest discoveries in recent years. The Wine Advocate agrees, calling it ‘one of the most exciting estates to watch today’. Their 2017 Barolo Albe is ‘exquisite’, says Antonio Galloni. Rising star Giulia Negri’s 2017 Barolo La Tartufaia, named after the truffle forest right next to the vineyards, is textbook La Morra Barolo – pure-fruited, floral and finessed.

Luigi Baudana’s rare 2017 Barolo Cerretta shows the power and depth of Serralunga. It’s a muscular wine and, whilst more accessible than the 2016s, will still age two decades. The historic Pio Cesare is among the most important in Italy, according to the Wine Advocate. Antonio Galloni praised the 2017 Barolo, saying it’s a ‘very pretty, super-classic Barolo’. '[Their] 2017s have a degree of finesse that I have never seen before.' – Vinous.

Finally, family-run Mario Marengo continues to make waves. This small producer’s 2017 Barolo 'is a gorgeous wine,' enthuses Antonio Galloni. It’s a perfect prelude to the family’s traditional style.

Like 2015 and 2016, 2017 was hot and dry with welcome rain September. But the 2017s are ultimately ‘deep, fleshy and impeccably balanced’ and ‘challenge preconceived ideas of what wines from hot years can be’, says Vinous. Many producers compare them to the lauded 2015s, with 2017 showing more energy.

Growing numbers of collectors are recognising the value, diversity and investment potential to be found in Barolo. And 2017 is a great place to start.

Reply to this email or visit our website to place your order online.

Vinous regards,

Tasting notes

GD Vajra, Barolo Albe 2017

‘This is one of the most accessible and trustworthy wines you can buy from Piedmont. Keeping in line with past vintages, the G.D. Vajra 2017 Barolo Albe opens to medium concentration and a very expressive or fruit-forward bouquet. This hot-climate 2017 edition shows a little more ripeness and roundness as is to be expected, but these results are a safe bet nonetheless. Cherry and raspberry aromas are followed by blue flower and pressed violets. Set this bottle aside for medium or long-term drinking. 2023 – 2038.’ – Monica Larner, Wine Advocate, 93/100

‘The 2017 Barolo Albe is exquisite. Bright and beautifully lifted, the 2017 Albe is a wine of pure and total pleasure. All the elements come together so gracefully. Crushed flowers, red berries, mint, cinnamon and lavender are some of the many notes that open in the glass. The 2017 is so nicely done in the way it captures the radiance of the year and the classicism that runs through all these wines. Vineyard sites are Fossati, Costa di Vergne and Le Volte. 2022 – 2032.’ – Antonio Galloni, Vinous, 91/100

‘This red is light on its feet, exhibiting rose, strawberry, cherry, mint and iron flavors. Comes together with the bright acidity and civilized tannins, creating a harmonious impression. 2023 – 2035.’ – Decanter, 92/100

Giulia Negri, Barolo La Tartufaia 2017

‘A suave version, almost elegant even, offering macerated strawberry and cherry fruit, with accents of menthol, mineral and tobacco allied to a sleek frame. Balanced and persistent, stretching out nicely on the finish. 2024 – 2040.’ – Wine Spectator, 94/100

‘Aromas of ripe berries, cedar, truffle and eucalyptus form the nose. Linear and rather austere, the palate offers sour cherry, ground clove and a hint of black tea alongside tense tannins. Drink after 2027.’ – Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Enthusiast, 91/100

Luigi Baudana, Barolo Cerretta 2017

‘A dark, somber wine, the 2017 Barolo Cerretta shows the more potent, brooding side of Serralunga. Black cherry, gravel, smoke, cured meats, cloves and menthol add to an impression of virile intensity and pure power. Readers will have to be patient here, but there is certainly a ton to look forward to. This is another impressive showing from Baudana and the Vajra family. 2025 – 2042.’ – Antonio Galloni, Vinous, 95/100

‘Forest floor, prune, leather and pipe tobacco aromas make their way to the forefront. Showing the heat of the vintage, it's full-bodied and concentrated, offering cherry marinated in spirits, licorice and the warmth of evident alcohol. Tightly knit, enveloping tannins provide firm, velvety support. Drink 2025–2032.’ – Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Enthusiast, 94/100

‘A release of 3,000 bottles, the Luigi Baudana 2017 Barolo Cerretta is the most downplayed of these three wines and the least complicated from an aromatic point of view. A first wave of aromas is focused on wild rose and crushed flowers. More robust tones of ripe cherry, rusty earth and dark spice follow in time. This edition of Cerretta is surprisingly delicate and fine, going against almost everything we know about robust fruit from Serralunga d'Alba and the powerful 2017 vintage. The wine is counterintuitive in a way only Nebbiolo can be. 2024 - 2038’ – Monica Larner, Wine Advocate, 93/100

‘(From) Serralunga d'Alba. Youthful ruby. Minerally, smoky/earthy cherry nose with a hint of exotic spice and black tea leaves. Lots of concentration but at the moment more subdued than their 2017 Baudana. Gorgeous, supple fruit and rich, truly powerful tannins that are still a little demanding right now. Concentrated, austere and still closed, but with lots of potential.’ – Walter Speller, JancisRobinson.com, 17+/20

Pio Cesare, Barolo 2017

'Plenty of blackberry and black cherry on the nose with violet and lavender undertones. Full-bodied with powerful tannins that flow across the palate. Ever enveloping and imposing, yet polished and impressive. Drink after 2024.’ – James Suckling, 95/100

'This is the wine to buy in commemoration of the 140th anniversary (1881-2021) of the historic house of Pio Cesare. The most traditional and classic of the wines in this important portfolio, the 2017 Barolo is packaged in a retro label that speaks to all the grandeur of this important Italian wine appellation. The wine imparts delicate and fine tones of wild fruit, cassis, tar, smoke and crushed rose. The wine is buttoned up and straitlaced, especially now in its youth. 2024 – 2040.' – Monica Larner, Wine Advocate, 94+/100

'The 2017 Barolo Pio is a very pretty, super-classic Barolo made from vineyards across the entire appellation. Crushed red berry fruit, spice, orange peel and rose petal accents give the 2017 lovely aromatic presence, and yet there is plenty of tannic grip to back it all up. Readers will find a serious entry-level Barolo. 2024 – 2037.' – Antonio Galloni, Vinous, 92/100

'Aromas of dark-skinned berry, underbrush and oak-driven spice mingle with camphor. On the full-bodied palate, notes of licorice and espresso accent a core of juicy black cherry before an almost salty close. Firm, fine-grained tannins provide ample support. Drink 2022–2029.' – Kerin O'Keefe, Wine Enthusiast, 93/100

'This year's releases are poignant as Pio Boffa recently passed away. This is the estate's classic Barolo, produced with Nebbiolo grapes located in the top plots across different communes since 1881. The wine is floral, focused on violet and rose, with a blood orange touch, yet a darker fruit and chocolatey flavour. Firm, extracted and rugged at present, with a good but austere finish, it will age gracefully. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040' – Aldo Fiordelli, Decanter, 93/100

Marengo, Barolo 2017

'Pretty cherry and currant aromas and flavors ply the dense texture in this lively, well-defined red, which shows excellent balance and energy, with floral, mineral and tobacco notes joining in and persisting on the complex finish. Best from 2024 – 2042.' – Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator, 94/100

'The 2017 Barolo is a gorgeous wine. Bold, rich and ample in the glass, the Barolo possesses terrific depth and tons of character. Juicy dark cherry, plum, spice and licorice meld together in a forward, bold Barolo that will drink nicely with minimal cellaring. There is some edginess to the tannin, but this is nicely done. 2022 – 2027.' – Antonio Galloni, Vinous, 90/100

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