|
Tasting notes
Anselmo Mendes Muros Antigos Alvarinho 2021
‘Pale lemon. Crushed rock, oyster shell, a hint of dried herbs, apple and zesty lemon, with a fair aromatic intensity. Ripe lemon, yellow apple, oyster shell and salt, underpinned by vibrant but ripe acidity. Some peachy tones at the long finish. Minimum three months on fine lees with regular bâtonnage.’ – Tim Jackson MW, JancisRobinson.com, 16.5/20
Anselmo Mendes Muros Antigos Loureiro 2021
‘The 2021 Loureiro Muros Antigos (there is no "Escolha" on the label) comes in dry and at 12.2% alcohol. This combines two important features. First, there is substantial body, at least in terms of mouthfeel, more than one often gets in Loureiro. That leads to mouth-coating texture. It seems surprisingly unctuous, relatively speaking. Second, there is persistence and power on the finish. It's never shrill, but it lingers beautifully and there is a hint of tartness. If there's a quibble, in its youth, it's not expressive at all. Loureiro is typically an aromatic and flavorful grape, but here it seems a bit more stolid, emphasizing its structure more. I like most everything about it. Can that still come with age? Yes, and I bet this ages well. It may be in better shape next year, but given the appellation, people tend to just dive in. You can, but aging this a year won't hurt. No matter what, at the price point, it is a nice deal for a serious fresh white.’ – Mark Squires, Wine Advocate
Anselmo Mendes Muros Antigos Escolha 2021
‘The 2021 Muros Antigos Escolha is a blend of 40% Loureiro, 40% Avesso and 20% Alvarinho, unoaked and coming in at 12.3% alcohol, plus something less than 1.5 grams of residual sugar and 6.8 grams of total acidity. A lovely blend and another fine value this year, this is bright and fresh but also surprisingly persistent without harshness. It is perfectly balanced. The Loureiro is asserting itself nicely in flavors and aromatics, making this blend extra appealing. It is very expressive, even as only a component in the blend. There is certainly reasonable concentration, but this is less about concentration than the crisp and fruity finish. To be sure, it is not terribly energetic this year, but it is harmonious and impossible to resist. It should hold a reasonable time, perhaps longer than indicated, but there is no reason to wait.’ – Mark Squires, Wine Advocate
Anselmo Mendes Parcela Única 2019
‘Complex and considered, with freshness, texture (a counterpoint) and emphatic minerality, rather than fruit or oak (100% new, 400l French oak barrels). From a precocious-ripening, granitic, gently sloping parcel at 205m, reveals restrained, silky white peach, with lightly toasted, subtly smoky hazelnut. Sourdough lees and nutty peach and apricot kernel undertones lend savoury nuance and texture. Lingering, with preserved stem ginger hints, it has yet to reveal its full potential.’ – Sarah Ahmed, Decanter, 95/100
Anselmo Mendes Curtimenta 2020
The 2020 vintage has not been rated; please see the 2019 note below.
‘The 2019 Curtimenta is all Alvarinho, aged for nine months in used French oak after fermentation with skin contact for 24 hours. It comes in at 12.8% alcohol, something less than 1.5 grams of residual sugar and 5.6 of total acidity. This is completely different in style than Mendes's Parcela Única, its long-time sibling as an upper-level wine. Feeling deeper than I expected, at least in terms of mouthfeel, this adds predictable grip on the finish and handles the wood very well. It's a big white table wine that is most suitable for a food pairing, not simple sipping on the porch. In fact, the Parcela Única this year is far more elegant and less stern, if a touch oakier. This certainly changes what you might think Vinho Verde is supposed to be. At the moment, it seems exceptional. It should age well, but it drinks nicely now too.’ – Mark Squires, Wine Advocate, 93/100
Anselmo Mendes Expressões 2019
The 2019 vintage has not been rated; please see the 2018 note below.
‘The 2018 Expressões is an Alvarinho aged for nine months in used French oak. It comes in at 13% alcohol, 1.5 grams of residual sugar and 6.5 grams of total acidity. Another in the many Mendes labels, many of which seem a lot alike, this has nonetheless become a solid performer. A rose by any other name would smell as sweet, right? There's a bit of sweet oak around the edges, but as this airs and warms it becomes a complete wine. There's also a long, if subtle, finish. This is, of course, a wine designed for food, not as a simple porch-sipper. So, take note. That will be its highest and best use. It should age very well.’ – Mark Squires, Wine Advocate, 92/100
|
