Patatsfontein Steen 2022 – True terroir magic | 96 pts, CE

Patatsfontein Steen 2022

True terroir magic | 96 pts, CE

‘Do your utmost to get hold of one, folks’Tim Atkin MW

The Patatsfontein Steen 2022 is from a special place – a vineyard planted in 1984 in the Montagu Mountains at 600m above sea level. In a great vintage like this, it produces a magical wine. Herbal fynbos notes linger over fresh lemon, floral fragrance, and a taut, mineral palate, while macadamia nuts complement the slate-like verve for a lingering finish. It’s an absolute cracker.

Christian Eedes remarks on the ‘great clarity of fruit to go with punchy acidity … a vintage [that] does indeed show great transparency’. The vineyard is one of the great discoveries of the last decade, and this very limited 96-pointer will sell out in a flash.

The idea of a monopole – a finite vineyard site – epitomises wines’ capacity to serve as a snapshot of time. South Africa’s old vine journey of discovery has led to many great vineyards being elevated, but few are as special as this one. Reenen Borman’s skill has produced a wine of Burgundian refinement and true terroir magic.

Providing another glimpse of what the Karoo has to offer is the earlier-drinking Patatsfontein Wit Versnit 2022. From 30-year-old Colombard vines blended with 16-year-old Chenin, it shows beautiful fruit purity over a graceful, light palate. Only 12% alcohol with a refreshing, gently saline send-off.

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