Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 750ml 1998France, Bordeaux
'Composed of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, the 1998 Mouton Rothschild is deep garnet-brick in color with lovely crème de cassis, dried roses, hoisin and baking spice notes with underlying notions of dried cherries and mulberries plus touches of wood smoke, incense and forest floor. Medium to full-bodied and packed with rich fruit framed by firm, chewy tannins, it is stacked with complex, evolving flavors and finishes with incredibly long-lasting perfumed notes. According to winemaker Philippe Dhalluin, this needs about three hours of decanting at this stage. I simply love the place this wine is in right now, possessing plenty of mature, tertiary characters yet still sporting bags of fruit. It won’t be fading anytime soon either and should cellar nicely for 20-25+ more years.' – Lisa Perotti-Brown, Wine Advocate, 97/100
'The 1998 Mouton Rothschild is another wine that I had not tasted for several years. It is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Compared directly with the 1988, there is clearly some improvement for the bouquet is fresher with greater complexity - blackberry, cedar, a spring of fresh mint and a little juniper berry for good measure. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin. Like many Pauillac 1998s, this feels quite structured and masculine, but at least there is adequate fruit tucked in just behind. It segues into a rather ferrous last third, fresh and precise with a sustained finish. Although it lags behind more recent vintages under Dhalluin, it appears to be at its peak after 20 years and should remain there for another decade. Tasted at the château.' – Neal Martin, Vinous.com (May 2018), 92/100
'Deeply coloured, the wine is an attractive purple-red. The relatively discreet first nose displays aromas of black fruit, blackcurrant and leather with a mineral cast, while more intense, oaky notes appear on airing, together with a touch of mocha. The clean and well-structured attack displays a lovely, acidulated freshness that heralds high-quality texture. Powerful and smooth tannins support a mid-palate of surprising volume and depth, leading into a powerful and elegant finish.' – Wine Maker
February and March were rather dry, causing the vine to bud earlier than usual, though the lack of rain in the second half of March probably slowed this advance. Shoot tips appeared between 27 and 29 March depending on the variety. Cold and wet weather in April halted the vegetation cycle and hampered spring work in the vineyard. May was quite the opposite – hot and dry, with no rain at all during the first 26 days – giving the younger vines no respite.
Mid-flowering was reached between 1 and 4 June, three to five days earlier than the average. Hot weather in July caused veraison to begin on the 21st, and the process was completed under favourable conditions during a very hot and dry August. By 15 August, veraison had taken place across all varieties. 12 days of very hot weather in August with temperatures in excess of 30° C caused some burning, but the damage was of little consequence. Although the growth cycle was kept under perfect control throughout the year, rain in September and October disturbed the harvest, requiring strict selection both in the vineyard and at the winery.
|Drink To||Long-term cellar|
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More Wines from this producer
AG: Antonio Galloni of Vinous.com | AM: Allen Meadows of Burghound.com | CE: Christian Eedes of Winemag.co.za | DEC: Decanter | GS: Greg Sherwood MW | JR: JancisRobinson.com | NM: Neal Martin of Vinous.com OM: Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show | PG: Platter's Guide | TA: Tim Atkin MW | WA: Wine Advocate | WE: Wine Enthusiast | WS: Wine Spectator