Moulin Touchais, Coteaux du Layon 750ml 1979France, Loire
'Very clean, light, lemon toffee notes here on the nose. There are also, as it opens up, caramel biscuit nuances, with faint orange scents, all suggestive of some role for botrytis here. It is clean but restrained. The palate shows a similarly clean character at first, before showing a light substance through the middle, less impressive than hoped for. The finish is rather subdued, and gently fades. This is attractive and it will probably keep going for decades...' – Chris Kissack, Wine Doctor, 16/20
About the estate:
Situated within the confines of the Loire’s Coteaux du Layon appellation, Moulin Touchais guarantees its customers a century of longevity. However impractical this guarantee may be, Moulin Touchais is renowned for being one of the world’s longest lived and most well-priced wines. Picked at various stages of maturity, this is a Chenin Blanc made in a sweet, late-harvest style where noble rot doesn’t play a large role. It is released a decade from vintage in order to benefit from tertiary complexity, but still possesses wonderful freshness and purity. The sugar level is around 80g/litre, but as the wines mature they tend to taste drier and the high acidity creates wonderful balance. The older and especially the tougher vintages show some nutty, almost rancio characters that, as Richard Kelley puts it, are for ‘proper’ Chenin lovers only! The great vintages such as 1971 and 2002 have many decades of maturation ahead.
Not only is the Jura home to some of the finest cheeses in the world, like Comté and Morbier, but its wines are among France's most distinctive. This small region around the town of Arbois is where Louis Pasteur solidified the understanding of micro-organisms in wine. Jancis Robinson calls it ‘the next small thing’.
|Drink To||Long-term cellar|
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