Châteauneuf-du-Pape and 'sleeping giant' Ventoux

 
Wine Cellar - fine wine merchants & cellarers
 
Châteauneuf-du-Pape and 'sleeping giant' Ventoux Jolette Steyn, 20 April 2021
 

Grenache from the Southern Rhône: Ancient and dynamic

Ancient yet dynamic, the Southern Rhône is home to one of the oldest and most celebrated appellations in France – Châteauneuf-du-Pape – and the new, up-and-coming region, Ventoux. Grenache flourishes in this Mediterranean climate and dominates the red blends here.

Today, we are highlighting three wines from three legendary producers: Michel Chapoutier – the king of the Rhône, Domaine de Santa Duc – one of the region's top producers and 'the jewel of Gigondas' as per Wine Advocate, and Château Pesquié – one of Robert Parker's all-time favourite French producers and 'unquestionably one of the reference point estates' of Ventoux according to Jeb Dunnuck.

If we had to choose only three wines from the Southern Rhône, these would be our must-haves.

Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pie VI 2017

Chapoutier,
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pie VI 2017

R 750
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Santa Duc Châteauneuf-du-Pape Habemus Papam 2017

Santa Duc,
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Habemus Papam 2017

R 800
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Pesquié Ascensio Ventoux Rouge 2017

Pesquié,
Ascensio Ventoux Rouge 2017

R 1,200
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Southern Rhône highlights
From a trio of legendary producers, including some fantastic value options

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Châteauneuf-du-Pape has long been considered the origin of the region's most famous wines. The best bottlings here are heady, spicy and powerful – age-worthy and collectable. To the east at a higher altitude and cooler climate, the world is taking note of Ventoux. The vineyards on the slopes of Mt. Ventoux, known as the Rhône's sleeping giant, produce lighter, more refreshing styles of Grenache, with that hallmark spiciness and lushness of fruit intact. It is the perfect bridge between the Northern and the Southern Rhône.

Although yields were small, Josh Raynolds from Vinous writes, '2017 is unquestionably a high-quality year for the region. The wines show lots of the richness of the 2016s along with some of the structure that marks the 2015s.'

All three properties farm their vineyards organically and biodynamically. They are also looking at picking earlier, shorter maceration times and are using more neutral vessels in a drive to balance freshness with the characterful power of the Southern Rhône fruit.

Great value from the Southern Rhône

 
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Vinous regards,

Jolette Steyn

Tasting notes

Chapoutier, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pie VI 2017

Drawn from three lieux-dits, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Pie VI is a blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah. Rich and concentrated, it marries dark, boysenberry fruit with hints of chocolate, leather and garrigue. It's full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, grainy finish. Drink 2019 - 2030. – Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate, 93/100 (Aug 2019)

Pretty whiffs of violet and blackberry preserves are nuanced by fur and crushed granite in this perfumed, velveteen blend of Grenache and Syrah. It's a deeply extracted, richly textured wine but freshly composed and edged by very fine, racy tannins. Drinks elegantly in youth but is structured enough to hold up at least a decade. Biodynamic. – Anna Lee C. Iijima, Wine Enthusiast, 95/100 (Mar 2021)

Santa Duc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Habemus Papam 2017

A blend of several small parcels, this was my first chance to taste the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Habemus Papam out of bottle. It lives up to the high expectations I had for it out of foudre, combining lively red-berried fruit with silky-textured tannins. Raspberries and garrigue, dried spices and fine leather notes all feature on the nose and linger on the finish, while the palate is medium to full-bodied, yet virtually weightless at the same time. Drink 2020 - 2030. – Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate, 94/100 (Oct 2020)

Sourced primarily from sandy soils, this blend of 64% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre and 1% Counoise offers a freshness and finesse that stands out amid a lineup of more unctuous, often heaving, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Boysenberry and blackberry flavors are crisply concentrated, etched by hints of chestnut skin, earth and nut. An elegant, vibrant sip that should improve through 2030. – Anna Lee C. Iijima, Wine Enthusiast, 95/100 (Mar 2021)

Pesquié, Ascensio Ventoux Rouge 2017

95% Grenache, 5% Syrah. A powerful, modern style, packed with ripe plums, violets and some spices. The palate is very long, as is the lingering aftertaste, and it has a great sense of harmony and purity. Excellent development potential. – Decanter World Wine Awards, 95/100 (Gold)

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