Joseph Drouhin, Beaune 1er Clos des Mouches Rouge 750ml 2016France, Burgundy
The 2016 crop was low in quantity but its quality provides a nice surprise. The mature grapes gave deep ruby-coloured wines displaying notes of black fruit mingled with hints of violet and spices. The palate is round and generous. The wines are typical of their terroir.
'In contrast to the nose of the Grèves the reduction is not subtle and I would strongly recommend decanting this if you're tempted to crack a bottle young. Otherwise there is gorgeous detail to the finer tension-filled and ultra-pure flavors that finish with a touch of austerity. I like the balance and transparency and while this is not quite as concentrated, it's more elegant. Note that my rating offers the benefit of the doubt that the firm reduction exhibited by the nose is not permanent.' – Allen Meadows, Burghound.com, 92/100
'The 2016 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches offers broody red fruit laced with melted tar on the nose, sultry after the Grèves but with a pleasant oyster shell scent. The palate is medium-bodied with chunky ripe tannin. What it might lack in finesse, it makes up for in sheer substance and charm. Maybe I was just expecting a little more joie-de-vivre and complexity.' – Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate, 88-90/100
'An exceptional wine. Beautiful, deep-red ruby colour, with the bright sheen of great Burgundies. Intense and fresh nose for the young wines. Primary notes of red fruit dominate, such as Morello cherry ("griotte", or wild cherry), raspberry, blackberry. There are hints of complexity with smoky flavours evolving towards liquorice. When the wine is maturing, aromas of pepper, tobacco, humus and undergrowth appear. When drinking the wine, the first impression is always clear-cut and the texture fleshy. The body is firm without being rough, well meshed without being heavy. There is great freshness in the younger wines. With age, the wine gets rounder. It takes on "gras" (velvety texture) and a more precise architecture, supported by silky tannins. It is lively and refined at the same time. There remains a final and most pleasing sensation of harmony, fullness and delicate tannins, as the wine lingers on the palate.' – Véronique Boss-Drouhin
Biological cultivation since 1990; biodynamic cultivation a few years later. Vine stocks: "sélection massale" (propagation of new vine stocks from a number of selected vines) done at the Drouhin nursery; also clones of recognized quality. Soil maintenance: compost of manure and white wood, sometimes guano (seabird manure used as fertilizer). Soil is ploughed either by tractor or by horse to manage spreading of weeds. Treatment: only authorized products for biological cultivation are used: infusions and macerations of plant materials, sulfur and copper, powdered rock. Natural predators are not eliminated. Plantation density: from 10,000 to 12,500 stocks/ha in order to extract all possible nuances from the terroir and limit the production of each vine stock. Pruning: Guyot. Yield: we aim to keep our yields low, more in line with the previous regulation, around 20% less than allowed by the current law.
|Drink To||Long-term cellar|
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AG: Antonio Galloni of Vinous.com | AM: Allen Meadows of Burghound.com | CE: Christian Eedes of Winemag.co.za | DEC: Decanter | GS: Greg Sherwood MW | JR: JancisRobinson.com | NM: Neal Martin of Vinous.com OM: Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show | PG: Platter's Guide | TA: Tim Atkin MW | WA: Wine Advocate | WE: Wine Enthusiast | WS: Wine Spectator