Hudelot-Noëllat, Clos de Vougeot 750ml 2016France, Burgundy
Established in Vougeot in 1962 by Alain Hudelot, Hudelot-Noëllat has quietly risen to the top echelon of Côte de Nuits producers. In 2008, Alain retired and his grandson Charles van Canneyt took over, making wines of great refinement and complexity. They farm sustainably on their 10 ha of vineyards planted across 15 different appellations, spread over the villages of Nuits-Saint-George, Vougeot, ChambolleMusigny and Vosne-Romanée. This includes the Grands Crus Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Richebourg and Clos de Vougeot. Hudelot-Noëllat is known for its old vines which average more than 50 years old with several vineyards dating back to 1920.
‘The Hudelot-Noëllat wines are always the most elegant in a line-up. Their fresh acidity, deft use of oak and terroir-driven style appeals to the traditional Burgundy lover seeking long-ageing wines’ – Roland Peens
‘The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, which was cropped around 20 hectoliters per hectare, has a well-defined bouquet, more mineral driven than I anticipated, possessing plenty of detailed dark cherry and strawberry fruit. This feels nimble in the mouth, with fine tannin and a fine bead of acidity. Maybe it does not have the length and persistence of the 2015, but it is still a delicious, very elegant Clos de Vougeot.’ – Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate, 92-94/100
'Reduction and wood makes an evaluation of the nose difficult and I would again strongly recommend decanting this first. There is both good density and punch to the vibrant big-bodied flavors that offer fine power but not at the expense of a certain level of refinement on the youthfully austere finale. A classically styled and built to age example.’ – Allen Meadows, Burghound.com, 93/100
Notes on the winemaker and vintage:
'Alain Hudelot's grandson Charles Van Canneyt described 2017 as "one with a straightforward growing season that really didn't give us much grief. I chose to begin picking on the 7th of September and the fruit was clean and ripe. Happily yields were much better than what we realized in 2016. Potential alcohols came in between 12.5 to 13% and thus there was very little chaptalization. I used no whole clusters for the vinifications though I did a slightly longer cuvaison of between 2 and 4 days to obtain a bit more density as the extractions occurred more slowly than usual. Somewhat curiously given the relatively low malic acid levels, the malos were late as they didn't finish until September.
As to the wines, they remind me quite a bit of the 2001s, which for me is a compliment as I like our 2001s a lot." Van Canneyt noted that the 2016s reviewed below were bottled in January and February 2018. He further noted that they were bottled with relatively high levels of CO2 (<900 mg) so they tend to be reduced and in need of decanting. Canneyt also proudly announced that he has acquired a parcel of Meursault villages called Clos des École that was previously farmed by Coche-Dury.' – Allen Meadows, Burhound.com
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AG: Antonio Galloni of Vinous.com | AM: Allen Meadows of Burghound.com | CE: Christian Eedes of Winemag.co.za | DEC: Decanter | GS: Greg Sherwood MW | JR: JancisRobinson.com | NM: Neal Martin of Vinous.com OM: Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show | PG: Platter's Guide | ST: Stephen Tanzer of Vinous.com | TA: Tim Atkin MW | VIN: Vinous.com | WA: Wine Advocate | WE: Wine Enthusiast | WM: Winemag.co.za Report | WS: Wine Spectator