Why buy 2010 Rhone?
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In both north and south, Rhone 2010 is set to become a benchmark vintage. Low yields (extremely low in the south) and a temperate vintage have produced, classic, long aging and rich wines. 'While the 2009s are unusually plump and ripe - particularly attractive attributes in a region whose Syrah vines sometimes struggle to ripen fully - the 2010s are devoid of puppy fat and are better at expressing terroir. The juiciness of wines grown on sand, the freshness of those from limestone, and the majestic concentration of those from vines whose roots try to penetrate granite are all particularly evident in the 2010s. (This generalisation of the two vintages can also be applied to a certain extent, incidentally, to 2009 and 2010 in Burgundy and Bordeaux.)' - Jancis Robinson
* Delivery - from June 2011 through to March 2012 depending on the producer.
* Wines are either offered Pre-shipment (PS) or En-primeur (EP) depending on the producer
* EP (En-primeur) wines are offered ex-property and VAT and shipping is required on landing.
* Payment required on invoice.
* Payment required on invoice.
Producers in 2010:
Chapoutier, Tain L'Hermitage
As I have written many times, all of these wines are produced from rigidly cultivated, bio-dynamically managed vineyards. That has been the rule since Michel Chapoutier first took over this firm in the late 1980s. Now, with over 20 years of biodynamic viticulture under his belt, Chapoutier remains committed to this rather radical style of organic farming. He believes the effect is to reduce rot in damp, rainy vintages. Moreover, he has observed that after 10 to 15 years of biodynamic farming, the natural acids tend to be more vivid and the overall pH of the soils (as well as the wines) has dropped. Controversial, outspoken and brutally candid, Chapoutier, who suffers no fools, continues to admirably produce wines that are among the finest in the world and potentially the longest lived. Refusing to acidify, chaptalize, or touch the wines in any way, he clearly wants every wine to capture the very essence of its terroir and vintage personality. In this, he succeeds remarkably. No one has made more effort in resurrecting the once-forgotten backwater appellation of St.-Peray than Michel Chapoutier. Working in conjunction with the famed Michelin three-star restaurant family, the Pics, Chapoutier has produced a sensational 2010 Gamme Pic and Chapoutier St.-Peray, and the first single-vineyard St.-Peray, the 2010 Lieu-Dit Peyrolles St.-Peray, which is one of the greatest St.-Perays I have ever tasted. This appellation is all steep hillside vineyards planted in pure, decomposed granite soils, not dissimilar from Hermitage, but they are located on the other side of the Rhone, facing the city of Valence. The single-vineyard wines, or selections parcellaires, 2010 whites are absolutely amazing, with production levels ranging from 300 to 700 or 800 cases of each cuvee. These wines are for true connoisseurs, as they are expensive and meant for long, long evolutions, but they capture the essence of a vintage and terroir as well as any wines in the world. As for the selections parcellaires of 2010 reds, Chapoutier likes this vintage almost as much as 2009, but feels it is very different, emphasizing more acidity and minerality, whereas 2009 is a combination of pure power, concentration and great potential longevity. Michel Chapoutier considers the 2009s, which are all in bottle, to be among the greatest wines he has ever produced, equaling his finest wines of 2006, 2003, 1999, 1990 and 1989 (his debut year) - Robert Parker
Domaine Grand Veneur, Chateauneuf du Pape
Don’t miss the following “Best Buys” reviewed in several previous issues: Alain Jaume 2010 Cotes du Rhone Haut de Brune (87), Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Blanc (88), Grand Veneur 2009 Cotes du Rhone Les Champauvins (89), Grand Veneur 2009 Cotes du Rhone Reserve Blanc (89), Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Blanc (91), Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Rose (86), Grand Veneur 2009 Lirac Clos de Sixte (91), and Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Blanc de Viognier (89). Credit Christophe and Sebastian Jaume for making this one of the most impeccably run estates in the Rhone Valley. To reiterate, this is an estate at the top of its game and the wines remain fairly priced as well. The 2010 Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Papes reveal youthful, crisper, more focused styles than their 2009 counterparts. I suspect their pHs are lower, the total acids slightly higher, and the alcohols perhaps .5 to 1% lower across the board. - Robert Parker
Domaine Clape, Cornas
This historic reference point for the wines of Cornas is one of the world’s most enviable small estates. Long run by Auguste Clape, who has slowly moved into retirement, turning the reins over to his talented son, Pierre-Marie, the quality of the Clape wines has been brilliant since I began visiting the estate over 30 years ago. I believe the 2009 and 2010 Cornas are the finest wines they have yet produced ... and that’s saying something. - Robert Parler
Rene Rostaing, Cote Rotie
Rene Rostaing’s elegant style is well-displayed in both 2010 and the riper, more fleshy, exuberant 2009 vintage. Always the sexiest wine in Rostaing’s cellar is the Cote Rotie Cote Blonde. It includes 3-4% co-fermented Viognier and is always the most seamless wine resembling haute couture. - Robert Parker
Andre Perret, Condrieu
Perret has long been one of the northern Rhone's finest producers of white wines, and over the last decade he has also raised the quality of his red wines as evidenced by these two vintages of St.-Joseph. Unfortunately, this is not a large domaine, and the Perret wines can be difficult to find. - Robert Parker
Alain Graillot, Crozes Hermitage
Yves Cuilleron, Condrieu
Why buy 2009 Rhone?
In a great vintage such as 2009 the highly demanded producers of one of the most demanded wines in the world will generally sell out before release. En-primeur is a trusted system where you are able to secure your order before release as well as pay the lowest price.
* Delivery - from June 2011 through to March 2012 depending on the producer.
* Charges - VAT and Landing charges to be paid on landing. Approx R20 per bottle plus the VAT on the wine.
* Payment required on invoice.
Producers in 2009:
We are proud to offer the Rene Rostaing 2009s - one of the stars of Côte Rôtie and a highlight of the entire En-primeur campaign.
These are classic wines made in a traditional style where Côte Rôtie's perfumed, somewhat peppery nuances are displayed in a silky, elegant shell. The top cuvees of Côte Blonde and La Landonne are tiny cuvees of up to 600 cases each, requiring a decade of cellaring before maturity. The Cuvee Classique is a blend of a number of parcels and offers a slightly more forward syrah which drinks slightly earlier but is no less impressive. Only 20% new oak is employed during maturation in 225 and 500 litre barrels.
Andre Perret is famous for his Condrieus which are amongst the best in the appellation as well as his classically styled St Joseph. Traditional methods and seasoned oak produce fine and vivid wines that display their terroir. Our last vintage St Joseph, 2007, was utterly compelling and sold out swiftly last year. ‘Much more complex than the St-Joseph mainstream’ say Jancis Robinson lamenting its value.
Michel Chapoutier is firmly convinced that 2009 is the greatest vintage in his lifetime, which means 2009 surpasses 2003 (he made some great wines in that unusual vintage), 1999, 1990 and 1989 (his debut vintage after taking over the firm). These wines are all produced by bio-dynamically farmed vineyards. Moreover, there is no chaptalization or acidification, and as Michel Chapoutier says, he wants to capture each vintage in photographic detail. It is also important to recognize Chapoutier’s life philosophy, which, rather than being obsessed with correcting one’s faults, is dedicated to capitalizing on one’s strengths. For all of his charm and bravado, Chapoutier is the quintessential man of the soil, a true terroiriste dedicated to producing the most vivid, natural and unadulterated expressions of the many different vineyards with which he works. While 2009 was a perfect year of extraordinary concentration as well as freshness, the 2008 vintage experienced huge rainstorms on September 5, 6 and 8. However, Chapoutier argues that while his bio-dynamically farmed vineyards suffered from some dilution, they had no sanitary problems like many other estates endured. Certainly his 2008s appear to be among the strongest efforts in a disappointing vintage in the Northern Rhone. One expects Chapoutier to excel with his four Hermitage vineyards (Le Pavillon, l’Ermite, Le Meal and Les Greffieux). Tasting through the 2009s reinforces the belief that this is one of the all-time great vintages for the entire Northern Rhone Valley. It couldn’t happen at a better time. While certain 2003s are great, there really hasn’t been an overall consistently profound vintage in the Northern Rhone since 1990. Connoisseurs should be stocking up on the single vineyard offerings, both white and red, which are spectacular. - Robert Parker
Domaine Grand Veneur's estate vineyards have been managed brilliantly and many exceptional wines as well as wine values have been produced by the two Jaume brothers, Sebastien and Christophe. Furthermore, by establishing a negociant operation under the name Alain Jaume, they have done nothing but enhance their reputation throughout the southern Rhone. With respect to the estate bottled Chateauneuf du Papes, the Jaumes own nearly 40 acres of vines, all situated at the very northern end of the appellation, in the direction of Orange. Two of the finest white Chateauneuf du Papes of the appellation are made at Grand Veneur. - Robert Parker
Etienne crafts very elegant and surprisingly long-lived Crozes that should be typical of the appellation. Unfortunately, there are many growers with extensive plantings on the plains who do not possess such a burning desire for quality and therefore often produce very lacklustre, soupy wines. Etienne vinifies plot by plot from hillside sites, the best of which are separated for some ageing in oak barriques; these are the red and white Château Curson wines. The white is a Marsanne/Roussanne blend full of sophisticated almond, dairy and stone fruit flavours that is at its best for two to three years.
Before the delicious 2006 and standout 2005, I remember how the Chateau Curson 2003 showed up the mighty Chapoutier Le Pavillon 2003 (RP 100/100) at a Wine Cellar tasting a few years back. We ended up selling 20 cases in one day and have had much positive feedback of its quality ever since. The standard Crozes-Hermitage seems a complete steal according to Jancis whilst the Blanc is a blend of Marsanne and Roussane and offers textured medium term drinking.
Yves Cuilleron