Wine Cellar

Wine:  Barbaresco

The 1998 Barbaresco is a beautiful effort displaying fleshy, oaky, deep black cherry, raspberry, tar, and truffle scents with subtle new oak in the background. Dense, voluptuously-textured, and full-bodied, with gorgeous overall symmetry, and beautifully integrated tannin, acidity, alcohol, and wood, it will drink well for 15 or more years.

Wine:  Barbaresco

The 2004 Barbaresco reveals fresh, perfumed aromatics that lead to layers of crushed flowers, spices and sweet raspberries. This is a wine of rare class, elegance and pure breed. It offers outstanding length and silky, elegant tannins to round out the inviting finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024.

Wine:  Barbaresco

The 2008 Barbaresco emerges from the glass with sweet red cherries, spices, flowers and licorice. This is an attractive Barbaresco with excellent depth and a firm, tannic spine that is very nicely integrated with the fruit. The 2008 isn’t a blockbuster, but it should drink well with minimum cellaring. This is a classic, linear Barbaresco endowed with terrific energy and focus. Right now the 2008 seems to be holding its cards close to the vest. I would not be surprised to see it show even better in a few years’ time. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028.

Wine:  Barbaresco

The 2009 Barbaresco is absolutely remarkable for the way it carersses the palate with endless layers of sweet red fruit. Will the 2009 shut down in bottle? Truth is, I don’t know, but the wine is exceptionally beautiful and polished from the very first taste. Ripe, red berries, crushed flowers and deeply spiced notes are woven into an intricate fabric of indescribable class. I am not sure how Angelo Gaja and his team do it, but this is a super-impressive wine in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029.

Wine:  Costa Russi

The overt fruit and depth typical of Costa Russi comes through in spades in the 2009. Plums, black cherries, chocolate and new leather form the core of this round, expressive Costa Russi. As beautiful as this is, the 2009 remains deeply marked by the vintage. There is plenty of beauty and richness in the glass, but not quite the sheer visceral thrill of the very best Costa Russis. Although I wouldn’t open any of the 2009 single-vineyard wines in the near-term, the Costa Russi is the most expressive of the three. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029.

Wine:  San Lorenzo

Gaja’s 2009 Sori San Lorenzo, on the other hand, is much more typical in its expression. Layers of juicy dark cherries, menthol, spices, tar, licorice and graphite flow across the palate as this powerful, masculine wine opens up in the glass. Balsamic infused aromas and flavors develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity and the signature of this great terroir, indisputably one of Piemonte’s very finest. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.

Wine:  Sito Moresco

35% Nebbiolo, 35% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon

Wine:  Sori Tildin

The 2009 Sori Tildin is a fascinating wine. The vineyard sits just above Costa Russi, separated only by the road that leads to Alba. This is an especially imposing vintage for Sori Tildin. Over time, the wine’s signature nuances and details begin to emerge. A radiant, sensual personality rounds things out nicely. This is a great showing from Gaja. The 2009 shuts down quickly in the glass, and is likely to demand a measure of patience from readers. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.

Wine:  Sperss

Gaja’s 2004 Langhe Sperss is an infant. Still incredibly primary, it exudes the essence of Serralunga black fruits, smoke and tar. The new oak is still very evident here and the wine seems to be at an awkward phase of its development. Still, it offers stunning concentration as well as length, with soft, caressing tannins that frame the fruit all the way to the long finish. This wine is in need of serious bottle age and may very well merit a higher score once it emerges from its temporary period of dormancy. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029.

Wine:  Barbera d'Alba

The 2010 Barbera d’Alba emerges from the glass with fresh red berries, flowers and mint in a vinous, silky expression of the year. It, too, is another fine choice for drinking over the next 2-3 years. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014.

Wine:  Barolo

The 2006 Barolo is a pretty, classy wine perfect for drinking over the next decade. Initially rather soft and supple, it firms up nicely with air, as dark red fruit, spices and grilled herbs come together in the glass. It is a lovely effort at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2021.

Wine:  Barolo Vigna Giachini

The 2007 Barolo Giachini opens with a beguiling, captivating bouquet redolent of tar, smoke, French oak and wild cherries, all of which come together in the finely-knit voice that is unique to this La Morra vineyard. The Giachini stands out for its exceptional length, finely nuanced fruit and lovely overall balance. Hints of Pinot linger on the close. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Proprietor Giuliano Corino has a stunning set of 2007 Baroli on his hands. The wines capture the ripe, open style of the vintage while preserving considerable freshness, aromatic complexity and structure. These are wonderfully complete Baroli that merit serious consideration. I expect most of the wines will drink well with a minium of cellaring, and continue to develop complexity with further time in bottle.

Wine:  Langhe Nebbiolo

The 2010 Langhe Nebbiolo makes a great introduction to Piedmont’s most noble red grape. It shows terrific depth in a classic, mid-weight style with beautifully integrated tannins that make the wine accessible, even at this stage. Floral notes add lift to the well-articulated fruit on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014.

Wine:  Barolo Monprivato

Mascarello’s 2006 Barolo Monprivato is incredibly primary at this stage. The 2006 is an explosive Monprivato endowed with layers of ripe red fruit backed up by firm, muscular tannins that speak with great eloquence. I expect the 2006 to go through a period of stubbornness - as it often does - but it should begin to show well at around age ten or so. From time to time, the wine shows glimpses of its nobility. The 2006 is shaping up to be a profound Monprivato. The only thing it needs is time. This is a fabulous effort from Mascarello. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2036.

Wine:  Langhe Freisa

2005 - WA 90 I have to admit the 2005 Langhe Freisa Toetto is an intriguing wine. Freisa is an indigenous red grape, but there aren’t too many producers making serious wines from this variety any more. Mascarello is one of them. The Toetto shows off pretty red fruit, herbs, anise and flowers in a somewhat austere, restrained style. Deceptively medium in body, the wine shows terrific balance and plenty of textural brilliance. This is a compelling, if eccentric, wine from Mascarello. It will be superb at the table, and at nearly six years of age, shows no signs of fading whatsoever. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015.

Wine:  Barbera d'Alba Pugnane

Wine:  Barolo

The 2008 Barolo is all elegance and finesse. Dried flowers, sweet herbs, tobacco and dried cherries are woven together in this utterly graceful, refined Barolo. The 2008 is a lithe, medium-bodied wine that captures the essence of the year. It won’t be this delicious forever, but the 2008 will drink beautifully for the next handful of years. Floral notes reappear on the delicate, saline finish. Marengo makes his Barolo from vineyards in Fontanazza, plus fruit he sources from Elio Altare’s Arborina. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018.

Wine:  Barolo Brunate

The 2008 Barolo Brunate is impressive. Layers of dark fruit, menthol, pine, spices and mint flow effortlessly from this impeccably graceful, polished Barolo. The 2008 Brunate is weightless yet deep in the way only Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo are capable. There is a ton of Brunate character here. Layers of fruit build to an explosive finish that saturates every corner of the palate. This is a fabulous showing from Marco Marengo. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028.

Wine:  Dolcetto d'Alba

The 2011 Dolcetto d’Alba is a big, rustic wine loaded with smoke, blackberries, violets and bacon fat. The wilder, more powerful side of Dolcetto comes through in this powerful effort. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014.

Wine:  Nebbiolo Valmaggiore

Wine:  Barbera d'Alba Ceretto

The 2008 Barbera d’Alba Cerreto is a striking wine. It is a little bit laid back in this vintage yet nevertheless presents layers of beautifully delineated fruit supported by vibrant, silky tannins. This harmonious, poised Barbera is showing beautifully today and should continue to drink well for a handful of years. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. Roberto and Davide Voerzio pay just as much attention to their entry-level wines as they do to their Baroli, which is evident just by looking at their impeccably tended vineyards. Readers who want to learn more about Voerzio and the estate’s approach to viticulture may want to watch my interview with Davide Voerzio.

Wine:  Barbera Pozzo dell’ Annunziata Magnum

An iconic single-vineyard, 100% Barbera from the old vines of the Pozzo dell’Annunziata plot. Produced in minimal quantities - only 1,500 magnums are produced every vintage. The vines are planted at 3,240 plants per acre, and yield only one ton of fruit per acre. The wine is aged for eighteen months in French oak barriques, one-third of which are new, and it is refined for up to four years in bottle. This is a superb and almost exotic Barbera, the wine of choice for collectors and wine lovers alike.

Wine:  Barolo Brunate

The 2008 Barolo Brunate is beautifully balanced from start to finish. Freshly cut flowers, mint, licorice, hard candy and dark red fruit are layered in this utterly impeccable Barolo. Waves of fruit build toward a huge, dramatic finish supported by serious tannins, yet the Brunate remains one of the more understated wines here. The Brunate is all about length, weightless elegance and an elusiveness that is only matched by the greatest Burgundies. This is a dazzling effort. Readers should expect the Brunate to take the better part of a decade to become expressive. Following the Brunate over the course of several days was immensely rewarding. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033.

Wine:  Barolo Cerequio

The 2008 Barolo Cerequio comes across as dark, powerful and rich. Black cherries, leather, spices, licorice and tar are some of the nuances that take shape in this intense Cerequio. Here, too, the flavors are dark and brooding. With time in the glass, the Cerequio turns suave, polished and elegant, all qualities that are typical of this site, but the 2008 never fully drops its sheer muscle. The 2008 remains big, powerful and structured. A finessed finish covers every inch of the palate with small bursts of energetic dark red fruit. This is another drop-dead gorgeous wine from Roberto and Davide Voerzio. Little of the early appeal and sensuality that is typical of Cerequio is to be found in the 2008, so readers will have to be patient. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028.

Wine:  Barolo La Serra

The 2008 Barolo La Serra emerges from the glass with dark red fruit, tar, smoke, licorice, spices and new leather. Today the 2008 comes across as surprisingly dark and masculine. The high-toned floral notes that are typical of this site have been replaced by a much darker, brooding register filled with tar, incense and black fruit notes. The wine freshens up beautifully with time in the glass as the aromatics become a bit more expressive. Voerzio’s 2008 La Serra is a huge and hugely promising wine. The firm tannins argue for at least a few more years in bottle. A hint of rose petal lingers on the intense finish. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028.

Wine:  Barolo Rocche Annunziata Torriglione

The 2008 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata/Torriglione impresses for its silky tannins and overall textural finesse. It shows striking mid-palate richness and gorgeous inner sweetness to match its beautifully delineated, expressive bouquet. Stylistically it is a bit on the masculine side, but very beautiful just the same. Layers of flavor build to the huge, dramatic finish. The Rocche presents a very classic aromatic and flavor profile backed up by serious heft and structure. It is the sweetest and most seductive of the 2008s. Readers will need to be especially patient, though. The Rocche shuts down hard in the glass. It won’t be an easy wine, but those who can wait will be handsomely rewarded. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033.

Wine:  Barolo Sarmassa Magnum

The 2008 Barolo Sarmassa (magnum) is beautifully expressive, even at this early stage. It is also one of only two 2008s here (the other is Capalot) that was aged entirely in French oak barrique. Freshly cut flowers, dark red berries and mint are some of the many nuances that flesh out in this complex, multi-dimensional wine. This is a stunning effort. Wow. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.

Wine:  Dolcetto d'Alba Priavino

The 2010 Dolcetto d’Alba Priavino bursts from the glass with juicy dark fruit. Scents of tobacco, leather and incense add complexity as this layered wine fills out its big frame. Once again, Voerzio’s Dolcetto is a standout. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. It is virtually impossible to go wrong with anything that emerges from Roberto Voerzio’s cellar these days. Voerzio pays much more attention to his entry-level wines than the overwhelming majority of his colleagues.

Wine:  Langhe Nebbiolo

The 2008 Langhe Nebbiolo is insanely beautiful. Dark red fruit, rose petals, licorice and tar are some of the notes that flow from this classic, nuanced Nebbiolo. The wine has a little extra sweetness and depth that is the hallmark of the house style, all in a gorgeous, wonderfully complete package. An intense, focused finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. Roberto and Davide Voerzio pay just as much attention to their entry-level wines as they do to their Baroli, which is evident just by looking at their impeccably tended vineyards. Readers who want to learn more about Voerzio and the estate’s approach to viticulture may want to watch my interview with Davide Voerzio.