Wine Cellar

Wine:  Arte Langhe DOC

Clerico’s 2006 Arte possesses gorgeous aromatics that meld into a core of expressive, ripe fruit, sweet spices, menthol and licorice. There is excellent persistence and tons of style, even if the tannins dry out a bit on the finish. With some air, this is delicious now, although it is clearly a wine that will offer its finest drinking at the dinner table. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016.

Wine:  Barolo Pajana

The 2005 Barolo Pajana is off the charts. This deeply scented, layered Barolo possesses a striking bouquet of spices, tobacco, graphite, dark cherries and new leather that come together in a breathtaking display of elegance and power that is hard to fully capture in words. The tannins are, as usual, quite broad but they are also remarkably fine. In 2005 the Pajana shows breathtaking balance and harmony with a long, sensual finish. This is a superb effort from Domenico Clerico, and his team led by the mega-talented Massimo Conterno. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025.

Wine:  Barbaresco

All readers need to do is taste the 2007 Barbaresco to get a sense of the promise the vintage holds at Gaja. Soft and seamless on the palate, the Barbaresco shows wonderful integrity in its fruit in an opulent, yet mid-weight style. Fragrant, perfumed aromatics are woven throughout, while an attractive spiciness develops in the glass. There is incredible depth to the fruit and simply phenomenal overall balance. Readers will not want to miss this Barbaresco; arguably Gaja’s finest since 1997. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032.

Wine:  Barbaresco

The 2008 Barbaresco emerges from the glass with sweet red cherries, spices, flowers and licorice. This is an attractive Barbaresco with excellent depth and a firm, tannic spine that is very nicely integrated with the fruit. The 2008 isn’t a blockbuster, but it should drink well with minimum cellaring. This is a classic, linear Barbaresco endowed with terrific energy and focus. Right now the 2008 seems to be holding its cards close to the vest. I would not be surprised to see it show even better in a few years’ time. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028.

Wine:  Costa Russi

The 2008 Costa Russi is absolutely gorgeous. Sweet dark cherries, tar, licorice and new leather are some of the aromas and flavors that take shape in the glass. The 2008 is a firm Costa Russi, with less of the seductiveness of most years, but equally fine balance. Ideally it needs a few more years in bottle, but it is striking. The finish shows terrific intensity. The typical juiciness of the site is framed by the firm tannins of the year. Everything that makes Costa Russi such an engaging wine is here, but in a slightly smaller-scaled package than in the very finest years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028.

Wine:  San Lorenzo

The 2008 Sori Tildin is impressive. I confess I wasn’t quite prepared for the assault of fruit and tannins here. Sori Tildin is so often a graceful, elegant wine, but that is not the case in 2008. That’s not to say elegance is missing, but this is a big, big wine with tons of intensity and richness, all woven together beautifully. It’s tough to find a comparison with a previous vintage, as this is a singular Tildin. The flavors are familiar if a touch on the dark side, but the structure is closer than that of Sori San Lorenzo. Flowers, tar, leather and licorice wrap around the palate. This is a fabulous showing and a great wine in the making. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033.

Wine:  Sito Moresco

35% Nebbiolo, 35% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon

Wine:  Sori Tildin

Gaja’s 2008 Sori San Lorenzo is impeccable from start to finish. The 2008 is a round, seamless San Lorenzo with seemingly no hard edges and terrific overall balance. The signature aromas and flavors are there, as is the wine’s typical gravitas, yet the 2008 has an extra level of sweetness, its size notwithstanding. The wine possesses striking inner perfume and fabulous overall balance. The sheer excitement of the very finest years isn’t quite there, but this is a fine bottle just the same. An explosive, juicy finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033.

Wine:  Sperss

Gaja’s 2004 Langhe Sperss is an infant. Still incredibly primary, it exudes the essence of Serralunga black fruits, smoke and tar. The new oak is still very evident here and the wine seems to be at an awkward phase of its development. Still, it offers stunning concentration as well as length, with soft, caressing tannins that frame the fruit all the way to the long finish. This wine is in need of serious bottle age and may very well merit a higher score once it emerges from its temporary period of dormancy. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029.

Wine:  Sperss

The 2007 Langhe Sperss is beyond impeccable in the way it combines a powerful expression of Serralunga fruit in a round, enveloping style. Make no mistake about it, there is plenty of intensity and muscle here, but in 2007 Sperss is exceptionally harmonious from the start. The fruit is decidedly darker than the red-toned Conteisa, while an array of licorice, smoke and iron – all typical of Serralunga – add further gravitas. Even as the tannins build on the close, here, too, the finish is utterly sublime. The 2007 Sperss will test readers’ patience but it is simply magnificent even today. Readers who can wait will be rewarded with a breathtaking bottle of wine. Anticipated maturity: 2022-2047.

Wine:  Barbera d'Alba

The 2010 Barbera d’Alba emerges from the glass with fresh red berries, flowers and mint in a vinous, silky expression of the year. It, too, is another fine choice for drinking over the next 2-3 years. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014.

Wine:  Barolo

The 2006 Barolo is a pretty, classy wine perfect for drinking over the next decade. Initially rather soft and supple, it firms up nicely with air, as dark red fruit, spices and grilled herbs come together in the glass. It is a lovely effort at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2021.

Wine:  Barolo Vigna Giachini

The 2007 Barolo Giachini opens with a beguiling, captivating bouquet redolent of tar, smoke, French oak and wild cherries, all of which come together in the finely-knit voice that is unique to this La Morra vineyard. The Giachini stands out for its exceptional length, finely nuanced fruit and lovely overall balance. Hints of Pinot linger on the close. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Proprietor Giuliano Corino has a stunning set of 2007 Baroli on his hands. The wines capture the ripe, open style of the vintage while preserving considerable freshness, aromatic complexity and structure. These are wonderfully complete Baroli that merit serious consideration. I expect most of the wines will drink well with a minium of cellaring, and continue to develop complexity with further time in bottle.

Wine:  Langhe Nebbiolo

The 2010 Langhe Nebbiolo makes a great introduction to Piedmont’s most noble red grape. It shows terrific depth in a classic, mid-weight style with beautifully integrated tannins that make the wine accessible, even at this stage. Floral notes add lift to the well-articulated fruit on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014.

Wine:  Barolo Bricco Viole

Wine:  Barolo Brunate

Marengo’s 2005 Barolo Brunate is a big, muscular wine endowed with tons of dark red fruit. The wine possesses terrific energy and focus as it blossoms on the palate, showing notable depth and plumpness. It is another highly successful effort in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.

Wine:  Nebbiolo Valmaggiore DOC