Wine Cellar

Wine:  Crozes Hermitage La Guiraude

Wine:  Crozes Hermitage Rouge

The 2010 Crozes-Hermitage revealed lots of minerality, excellent concentration of red and black currants as well as cedar, licorice and black olive characteristics, and medium to full body. It should turn out to be a crisp, elegant Crozes with a Burgundian sensibility.

Wine:  Gigondas Terrasses de Montmirail

The cooler climate, fresh 2010 Gigondas Terrasses de Montmirail possesses abundant blueberry, red and black currant, crushed rock and floral notes. Both of these wines should last for 10-12+ years given the concentration and freshness of the vintage.

Wine:  Rasteau Les Valats

The masculine, rustic-styled 2010 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau Les Valats exhibits a more earthy, chocolaty, roasted, spicy, peppery character

Wine:  Vacqueyas Grande Garrigue

Under their negociant line of wines (called Alain Jaume), the 2010 Vacqueyras Grande Garrigue is a classic Vacqueyras with lots of dense, concentrated, black cherry and plum fruit intermixed with hints of garrigue and licorice, a full-bodied mouthfeel.

Wine:  Condrieu

Not surprisingly (given this high quality vintage in Condrieu), the three 2010 Condrieus are all spectacular. The 2010 Condrieu exhibits lovely lychee nut, honeysuckle, apricot and orange rind notes, medium to full body, good minerality, terrific acidity and a luscious finish. It should drink well for 3-4 years.

Wine:  Condrieu Chery

Not surprisingly (given this high quality vintage in Condrieu), the three 2010 Condrieus are all spectacular. Even more minerality and floral notes can be found in the 2010 Condrieu Chery. Sumptuous and rich, with abundant aromas of wet rocks, honeysuckle, lychee nuts, peaches, apricots and tangerine oil, this is a sensational Condrieu. I had it twice at Parisian restaurants after I had officially tasted it the week before, and it is unquestionably a stunning white wine.

Wine:  St. Joseph

The dense ruby/purple-tinged 2009 St.-Joseph is filled with notes of cherry liqueur, raspberries, smoke and licorice intermixed with a wet rock-like component. Full-bodied and opulent, with lower acidity than the 2010, it will keep for a decade or more. Robert Parker. Always an honest, pure Saint-Joseph of good complexity and a certain degree of stuffing with no hard edges, this is one of the great value northern Rhônes, made in a gently extracted way without stalks and aged in used oak barriques. The 2009 is one of the most profound André has made, ripe crushed bramble, mulberry and loganberry fruit, really polished and ripe without being too sweet or slushy, really smart sleek tannins provide structure, finishing on complex savoury notes of coal dust, liquorice and sandalwood. An excellent, sturdy effort that will require some years bottle age. Jancis Robinson

Wine:  St. Joseph

Both 2010 St.-Josephs possesses terrific fruit intensity, wonderful minerality, good acidity and medium to full-bodied characters. The classic cuvee of 2010 St.-Joseph reveals copious notes of raspberries and strawberries as well as supple tannins, beautiful purity and a floral component that may be due to his brilliant white winemaking skills. Anticipated maturity: now-2020.

Wine:  St. Joseph Grisieres

Both 2010 St.-Josephs possesses terrific fruit intensity, wonderful minerality, good acidity and medium to full-bodied characters. The 2010 St.-Joseph Les Grisieres reveals a denser ruby/purple color as well as additional notes of subtle smoke, black raspberries, black currants, crushed rocks and spring flowers. This sumptuous 2010 will need 2-3 years of cellaring when released, and should drink well for 12-15 years.

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac

Dark crimson. Really round and rich and spicy/herby. Pretty damned subtle. Very much more perfumed, subtle and gentle than original vintages. Lots of tannin on the finish. Pretty impressive!

Drinking period: 2013 - 2025

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape Bernadine

A very strong effort in a low yielding year, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape La Bernardine exhibits classic notes of black cherries, raspberries, damp earth, underbrush and forest floor in its full-bodied, elegant personality. It has slightly more acidity than normal as well as wonderful freshness and depth. Enjoy it over the next decade.

Wine:  Cote Rotie La Mordoree

Sweet and rich and very scented. Perfumed and polished. Could perhaps do with very slightly brighter fruit. Just a little bit tepid somehow. 'We were last to pick in Côte Rôtie' (and it tastes like it). Michel Chapoutier is reminded a lot of 1991.

Drinking period: 2013 - 2019

Wine:  Cotes du Rhône Belleruche Blanc

Another Grenache Blanc offering with slightly more weight than La Ciboise is the medium-bodied 2011 Cotes du Rhone Belleruche Blanc. It exhibits notes of quince and honeyed grapefruit in a fresh, lively, unoaked style.

Wine:  Cotes du Rhône Belleruche Rouge

The 2011 Cotes du Rhone Belleruche exhibits classic framboise notes, a light, vibrant, florescent pink color, excellent texture and a dry finish

Wine:  Crozes Hermitage Meysonniers

From the north, the 2006 Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonnieres reminded me of the 1996, with tart acids, and a leafy, cool red fruit character. This elegant, mid-weight, consumer-friendly Crozes can be enjoyed over the next few years.

Wine:  Crozes Hermitage Meysonniers

The dense purple-colored 2009 Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonnieres is much more concentrated than normal with loads of melted licorice, black olive, red and black currant and camphor notes. This impressively fruity, medium to full-bodied red can be enjoyed over the next 7-10 years.

Wine:  Crozes Hermitage Meysonniers

2011 Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonnieres. More black olive, rich red and black currant fruit, damp earth and lavender notes emerge from this medium-bodied, fruity, seductive Crozes.

Wine:  Ermitage Le Oree Blanc

Slightly better is the 600-case cuvee of 2008 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree. This brilliant white Hermitage from the top of the granite dome of this appellation offers notes of roasted hazelnuts, nectarine oil, citrus, quince and crushed rocks. Astonishingly full-bodied and rich, particularly in view of the vintage conditions, it is exceeded in quality ever so slightly by the two white Hermitages that follow.

Drinking period: 2010 - 2016

Wine:  Ermitage Le Pavillon Rouge

There are nearly 1,200 cases of the 2006 Ermitage Le Pavillon. Since Michel Chapoutier released his first full vintage, 1989, of this single vineyard Hermitage, it has been one of the great wines of both France and the world. The 1989 and 1990 remain very young wines (I had them over the holiday break and was amazed by their still youthful personalities.). The inky/purple-hued 2006 exhibits a gorgeous perfume of crushed rocks, white flowers, creme de cassis, blackberries, graphite, and a subtle touch of oak. Exceptionally full-bodied, multilayered in concentration, extraordinarily pure, and long, this is a prodigious young Hermitage that should be at its finest between 2018-2050+.

Wine:  Ermitage L'Ermite Rouge

Conservatively, the 2009 Ermitage l’Ermite (702 cases) needs 25-30 years of cellaring. Another monumental effort from Michel Chapoutier, it possesses copious notes of smoky asphalt, black truffles, pen ink, graphite and blackberry liqueur intermixed with hints of flowers and crushed rocks. Extremely full-bodied with abundant sweet tannins, amazing penetration on the palate and a long finish, this historic effort should age effortlessly for 50-100+ years. 3 ha, 100% Syrah. The plot is situated at the top of the Hermitage Hill, around the chapel. The elevated position of the vineyard, over 200 m, allows long ripening at the end of the growing season. The soil of loess provides excellent drainage for rainwater. Vines are over 80 years old and are planted on granitic poor soils. L’Ermite traditionally produces the most elegant and aromatic Ermitage. Another wine that begs for 15-20 years of bottle age is the 2009 Ermitage l’Ermite. Pure powdered rock notes intermixed with cassis, scorched earth, flowers and barbecue smoke are all present in this wine along with magnificent intensity, texture and length. All three of these wines have skyscraper-like textures and amazing purity, richness and depth. It is hard to believe any other producer could eclipse what this trilogy represents in quality, longevity and winemaking statesmanship. One has to admire Michel Chapoutier for producing wines that are not meant for immediate gratification or for turning the heads of consumers right out of the bottle. These wines are meant to help establish his legacy long after most of us have disappeared. Charges Apply, Landing May 2012

Drinking period: 2018 - 2045

Wine:  Hermitage Chante Alouette Blanc

The 2007 Ermitage Chante Alouette is a bold, exuberant, full-bodied, fresh effort that does not possess the minerality and nuttiness found in the 2006. Nevertheless, it, too, is a top-notch white.

Wine:  Hermitage Chante Alouette Blanc

The 2010 Ermitage Chante Alouette, which is the largest production cuvee of white Ermitage from Chapoutier (there are several thousand cases of this, in contrast to the other cuvees) is one of his strongest efforts to date. Notes of white flowers, honeysuckle, wet rocks and chalk, as well as quince and white peach, are all present in this deep, full-bodied wine, which has great fruit and a more forward accessibility than the other Ermitages. Drink it over the next 10-15 years.

Wine:  Hermitage Chante Alouette Blanc

Possibly the finest cuvee of this wine I have ever tasted, the stunning, rich 2011 Ermitage Chante Alouette comes from three separate parcels on Hermitage Hill (Meal, Les Murets and Chante Alouette) and reveals plenty of white currant, buttered citrus, tangerine oil and honeysuckle along with hints of such exotic fruits as mango. It is a full-bodied, Montrachet-styled, dry white.

Wine:  Hermitage Sizeranne Rouge

Exceptional for the vintage! Showing black currants and liquorice in an elegant and aromatic mold. Sturdy tannis, typical of Hermitage. Drink now to 2018

Wine:  Hermitage Sizeranne Rouge

For starters, there are 1,627 cases of the 2009 Ermitage Monier de la Sizeranne. Lots of peppery, meaty notes are found in this dense purple-colored 2009 along with sweet tannin, a full-bodied, layered mouthfeel and outstanding purity. Three to five years of cellaring will be beneficial, and the wine should keep for two decades.

Wine:  St Joseph Les Granits Blanc

100% Marsanne on granite @ 15 hl/ha.The light gold-colored 2008 St.-Joseph Les Granits Blanc possesses classic Mandarin orange and crushed rock-like notes, medium to full body, fresh acids and a long finish. This evolved beauty is one of the vintage’s striking successes. Drink it over the next 4-5 years.

Drinking period: 2011 - 2013

Wine:  St Peray Blanc

Wine:  St Peray Blanc

The 2010 St.-Peray is crisp, with notes of chalk, crushed rocks, white flowers, orange rind and quince in a fresh, medium-bodied, almost Chablis-like, steely nakedness. With very good acidity and loads of character, it should drink well for another 3-4 years, perhaps even longer

Wine:  Tavel Beaurevoir Rose

Wine:  Tavel Beaurevoir Rose

Wine:  Condrieu

Wine:  Crozes Hermitage Cuvee Gaby Rouge

Wine:  Hermitage

Wine:  Cornas

Eclipsing even the 2009, the 2010 Cornas achieved one of the highest natural alcohol levels (14%) ever recorded at Clape. This complex, inky/purple-colored effort boasts abundant notes of charcoal, licorice, blackberries and blueberries intermixed with a hint of scorched earth (or is it charcoal embers?), a full-bodied mouthfeel, a seamless personality and a crushed rock-like minerality. The tannins are so sweet it will be drinkable in 2-3 years, and should keep for 25 or more. It is a tour de force in what Syrah can achieve in this hallowed appellation. Kudos to the Clape family, especially Pierre-Marie.

Wine:  Cornas Renainssance

The 2010 Cornas Renaissance may be the finest example of the cuvee I have yet tasted. This offering represents about one-third of the Clape production and tends to come from two well-known sites in the natural amphitheater of Cornas, Les Sabarottes and Geynale. This astonishing 2010 boasts a black/purple color along with gorgeous, explosive aromatics consisting of blue and black fruits and spring flowers, a full-bodied, layered texture and superb intensity. Very pure with sweet tannin, it was bottled unfiltered after 22 months in primarily foudre, and should drink well for two decades.

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape

While the beautiful 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape is already accessible, it will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring, and should last for two decades or more. It exhibits an inky/ruby/purple color, a great texture, and a gorgeous nose of boysenberries, blueberries, blackberries, acacia flowers, licorice, and incense. There is wonderful freshness and vibrancy (because of the good acids) as well as a terrific finish. Jean-Paul Dauman is one of a handful of Chateauneuf du Pape proprietors who believes his 2005s are better than what he produced in 2007, and I find it difficult to disagree relative to this estate's wines. True lovers of Chateauneuf du Pape will probably want to have both vintages in their cellars.

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape

The 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape has turned out to be one of the better wines of the vintage. A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a medium-bodied wine exhibiting spicy, roasted herb, pepper, black currant and cherry notes offered in a fruity, up-front, delicious style. It should drink nicely for 7-9 years.

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape from the domaine has turned out much better than I predicted last year. A blend of 70% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Counoise, Mourvedre and Cinsault from the very northern sectors of Chateauneuf du Pape, on terraces just north of Chateau Cabrieres and Domaine Mas de Boislauzon, this deep purple wine has a gorgeous nose of fresh blueberries and kirsch, with almost meaty, chewy richness, loads of glycerin, full body, stunning concentration and purity. It was bottled in May and should have 15 or more years of aging potential.

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve, which was made from frighteningly low yields, has a whopping 16.5% alcohol, compared to the 2010's 16.4, yet it is not even noticeable, given the luxurious concentration and extraordinary depth and richness this wine possesses. A phenomenal example of opulence, super concentration, old vine viticulture, and impeccable winemaking, this black/blue/purple wine displays notes of spring flowers, graphite, blueberries, blackberries, licorice and some charcoal notes, even though it is aged totally in old wood foudres. Given its opulence, it can be drunk relatively early on, but this wine will keep for15-20 years, based on how slowly vintages such as 1999 and 2000 are aging.

Wine:  Cotes du Rhone

Readers looking for one of the finest Cotes du Rhones money can buy should check out the 2010 Cotes du Rhone Clavin from Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, which comes from the old vines in front of the winery. Dense ruby/purple, exhibiting sweet, dark raspberry and blueberry fruit intermixed with some floral notes, this blend of 80% Grenache and the rest Cinsault, Mourvedre and Syrah is a beauty. With good acidity and freshness, it should keep for a decade or more.

Wine:  Cotes du Rhone Blanc

There is also a 2010 Clavin B, Dauman’s white Cotes du Rhone, which goes through full malolactic fermentation, and is bottled unfiltered. It is made mostly from Clairette, with a touch of Grenache blanc. This wine is better than 75% of the white Chateauneuf du Papes, but unfortunately there are only 300 or so cases. A serious wine with a light gold color might raise a few eyebrows, but the wonderfully fresh, honeyed marmalade and orange rind notes intermixed with some quince and rose petals are followed by delicious fruit, medium to full body, and surprising complexity and intensity. Drink it over the next several years.

Wine:  Rasteau Cotes du Rhone Villages

This is one of the sensational estates in Rasteau, with proprietor Jerome Bressy farming just over 20 acres of vines. Organic farming and the naturally low yields of his old vines (8-15 hectoliters per hectare) result in wines of extraordinary concentration and intensity. The general blend on his Rasteau is 70% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Mourvedre, and Carignan.

Wine:  Rasteau Cotes du Rhone Villages

This is one of the sensational estates in Rasteau, with proprietor Jerome Bressy farming just over 20 acres of vines. Organic farming and the naturally low yields of his old vines (8-15 hectoliters per hectare) result in wines of extraordinary concentration and intensity. The general blend on his Rasteau is 70% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Mourvedre, and Carignan.

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape

The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape (70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre) is an opaque purple-colored beauty revealing lots of creme de cassis, black raspberry, licorice and camphor notes. Sexy and full-throttle as well as supple and more evolved than many 2010 Chateauneufs, it can be enjoyed now and over the next 10-12 years.

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc

The 2009 Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Pape blanc, a blend of 50% Clairette, 30% Roussanne and 20% Grenache blanc aged in stainless steel, exhibits lots of tropical fruits such as mango and pineapple intermixed with honeysuckle, crushed rocks and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fresh, pure and lively, it is best drunk over the next year.

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc

a blend of 50% Clairette, 30% Roussanne and 20% Grenache blanc aged in stainless steel

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape Fontaine Blanc

The 2008 Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Pape La Fontaine blanc is also superb. Although slightly less powerful than the 2009, it is very similar. While these wines have the potential to drink well for up to a decade, I would recommend consuming them in their first 2-3 years of life.

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape Fontaine Blanc

The 100% Roussanne cuvee, the expensive but very white Burgundy-like 2009 Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Pape La Fontaine blanc comes from 70+-year-old Roussanne vines and is aged 6-8 months in 600-liter demi-muids. It exhibits intense aromas of flowers, honeysuckle, candle wax, rose water, orange marmalade and apricots. Full-bodied with great acidity, the wood is pushed way to the background.

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape Les Origines

The beautiful 2009 Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Pape Les Origines (a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah aged in small barrels) offers notes of graphite, camphor, blackberries, creme de cassis, Provencal herbs and lavender. It is nearly as good as the brilliant 2007. Full-bodied and rich with nicely integrated tannins, acidity and wood, the 2009 will benefit from several years of bottle age and should evolve for 20 or more years.

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape Les Origines

Another blockbuster is the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Origines. A blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre (45- to-95-year-old vines) aged in small oak, it exhibits an opaque purple color as well as a sweet bouquet of blackberries, espresso roast, ink and graphite. While clearly a modern-styled Chateauneuf du Pape, it retains plenty of the region's typicity and authenticity. It should drink well for 15+ years.

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (a cuvee that was first made in 2006) is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah, all aged in new oak casks. Despite all the new oak, its influence is marginal. Some toasty notes are present, but the wine is very full-bodied with extraordinarily intense aromas and flavors of creme de cassis, kirsch, lavender, licorice and hints of lead pencil shavings and smoke. Dense, full-bodied, tannic and super intense, this is a massive 2009 that begs for 4-5 years of cellaring. It should drink well for 20-25 years thereafter.

Drinking period: 2014 - 2039

Wine:  Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes

A monumental effort meriting a perfect score, the super-rich 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is a 4,000-bottle blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah from 55- to 105-year-old vines and was aged for 18 months in small oak. The wine offers majestic blackberry and cassis fruit intermixed with kirsch, licorice and subtle Provencal herbs in the background. It is akin to chewing meat in the mouth given its viscosity and thickness. This utterly amazing wine comes close to being over the top, but it pulls back just in time. A massive Chateauneuf du Pape (even for a 2010), it needs 5-6 years of cellaring and should age effortlessly for 25-30 years. Bravo!

Wine:  Cotes du Rhône Les Champauvins

The single-vineyard Cotes du Rhone, the 2010 Les Champauvins, is a smaller cuvee made largely from Grenache (70%) and the rest Syrah and Mourvedre. This is the poor person’s Chateauneuf du Pape, with notes of garrigue, lavender, black cherry jam, licorice, and a hint of blacker fruits. Rich, full-bodied, ripe, with sweet tannin and lots of concentration, this is a beauty to drink over the next 8-10 years – it is that rich and concentrated.

Wine:  Lirac Clos Sixte

In addition to these gorgeous Chateauneuf du Papes, Domaine Grand Veneur's 2010 Lirac Clos de Sixte is outstanding. It is a full-bodied, rich, textural wine with abundant blue and black fruits interwoven with garrigue and licorice. Drink it over the next 7-8 years.

Wine:  Côte Rôtie

Really solid, with a still-compact core of braised fig, mulled black currant, grilled chestnut and roasted olive notes, held in check by charred wood and truffle hints. There's burly grip, but it's integrated on the long, dark finish, which is spiked with an iron note. Best from 2011 through 2021. 150 cases imported. –JM

Wine:  Côte Rôtie

Youthfully tight, with hints of lilac, white pepper and red currant quickly overrun by a strong iron note. The finish is taut, with a damson plum note lingering, but it's also seriously long, and this should more than fill out nicely.--Non-blind Jamet Côte-Rôtie vertical (2010). Best from 2012 through 2020. –JM

Wine:  Côte Rôtie

notes of pine-needles, smoke, olive, exotic dark fruits, chocolate and roasted pepper. Massive mid-palate with hugely long, layered finish. Wow!

Wine:  Côte Rôtie

notes of cranberry, wet earth, fine pepper, fresh thyme and rosemary. Fragrant, pure, taught, mineral and silky. A sin to open in its youth! The harvest was reduced by 50% resulting in a very concentrated wine.

Wine:  Côtes du Rhone

Tied 1-2 with any vintage Cote Rotie due to its small quantities. Made in the same style as the Cote Rotie from younger vines just outside the appellation. Jamet feels these vines could produce the quality of Cote Rotie as the vines age.