Wine Cellar

Wine:  Brut

Unfortunately there is only one new release from Dom Perignon this year. The 2003 is one of the most unusual Dom Perignons I have ever tasted, going back to 1952. Readers will remember that 2003 was a torrid vintage across northern Europe, especially during the critical month of August, when temperatures remained very hot for well over a month. The harvest was the earliest on record, until 2011, that is. I suppose its not that surprising Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy chose to make a 2003 Dom Perignon, given his penchant for risk-taking, an approach that has yielded so many memorable wines that stretch the perception of what big brand Champagne is and can be. The 2003 Dom Perignon is a big, broad shouldered wine. It does not have the seductiveness of the 2000, nor the power of the 2002. It is instead very much its own wine. In 2003 Geoffroy elected to use more Pinot Noir than is typically the case, and that comes through in the wine’s breath and volume. The 2003 is a big, powerful Champagne that will require quite a bit of time to shed some of its baby fat. The trademark textural finesse is there, though. I expect the 2003 to be a highly divisive Champagne because of its extreme personality, but then again, many of the world’s legendary wines were made from vintages considered freakish at the time. The 2003 is an atypically, rich, powerful, vinous Dom Perignon loaded with fruit, structure and personality. It is not for the timid, but rather it is a wine for those who can be patient. No one has a crystal ball, but personally I will not be surprised if in 20 years’ time the 2003 is considered an iconic Champagne. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2038.

Wine:  Brut Nature

The NV Brut Nature Pinot Noir Zero Dosage Andre et Michel is a 100% Pinot Noir Champagne bottled with no dosage. This is an especially focused, driven Champagne with good varietal flavors and a long, pointed finish. The zero-dosage approach gives the wine an attractive, vinous quality. The finish is a touch clenched, but some of that may be attributable to the recent disgorgement

Wine:  Brut Nature Magnum

The NV Brut Nature Pinot Noir Zero Dosage Andre et Michel is a 100% Pinot Noir Champagne bottled with no dosage. This is an especially focused, driven Champagne with good varietal flavors and a long, pointed finish. The zero-dosage approach gives the wine an attractive, vinous quality. The finish is a touch clenched, but some of that may be attributable to the recent disgorgement

Wine:  Brut Nature Rosé

Wine:  Brut Rose

The NV Brut Rose is very, very pretty. This is a fresh, energetic wine that impresses for its length and persistence. The wiry finish suggests the wine will drink well for a number of years, perhaps more if the fruit fleshes out. This is Lot # LV0301811. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015.

Wine:  Carte D'Or

The NV Brut Carte d’Or, 80% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay and 5% Meunier, is a delicious entry-level wine with excellent depth and definition. The broad shoulders of the Pinot come through in the wine’s rich, expansive core of red fruits and long, creamy finish. Lightly chalky, with a firm backbone of acidity framing flavors of ripe apple, biscuit, candied lemon zest and ground ginger. Shows fine texture and good length. Drink now through 2015. 9,000 cases made.

Wine:  Carte D'Or 375ml

The NV Brut Carte d’Or, 80% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay and 5% Meunier, is a delicious entry-level wine with excellent depth and definition. The broad shoulders of the Pinot come through in the wine’s rich, expansive core of red fruits and long, creamy finish. Lightly chalky, with a firm backbone of acidity framing flavors of ripe apple, biscuit, candied lemon zest and ground ginger. Shows fine texture and good length. Drink now through 2015. 9,000 cases made.

Wine:  Carte D'Or Jeroboam

The NV Brut Carte d’Or, 80% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay and 5% Meunier, is a delicious entry-level wine with excellent depth and definition. The broad shoulders of the Pinot come through in the wine’s rich, expansive core of red fruits and long, creamy finish. Lightly chalky, with a firm backbone of acidity framing flavors of ripe apple, biscuit, candied lemon zest and ground ginger. Shows fine texture and good length. Drink now through 2015. 9,000 cases made.

Wine:  Carte D'or Magnum

The NV Brut Carte d’Or, 80% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay and 5% Meunier, is a delicious entry-level wine with excellent depth and definition. The broad shoulders of the Pinot come through in the wine’s rich, expansive core of red fruits and long, creamy finish. Lightly chalky, with a firm backbone of acidity framing flavors of ripe apple, biscuit, candied lemon zest and ground ginger. Shows fine texture and good length. Drink now through 2015. 9,000 cases made.

Wine:  Charles de Gaulle

During the 1960’s, when he was not at the Elysée Palace or on an official journey, General de Gaulle resided at his property, la Boisserie in Colombey-Les-Deux-Eglises. Through his affection for the Champagne hills which surround la Boisserie and of which he talks in his memoirs, he delighted in savouring the produce of this part of France which he so loved. He discovered Drappier Champagne thanks to his faithful aide de camp, Colonel de Bonneval, a customer of the house, and it was the Extra Dry Cuvée, rich in Pinot Noir, which was adopted On 18th June 1990, on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the cal l to arms, the Col lection Charles de Gaulle Cuvée was launched as homage to a historic person who marked Champagne with his presence. Composed of 80% of Pinot Noir and 20% of Chardonnay, its colour is yel low gold and the nose is dominated by the Pinot.

Wine:  Grande Sendree

Wine:  Grande Sendree Magnum

Drappier’s 2004 Brut Grande Sendree blossoms from the glass with expressive nectarines, honey, Chamomile, wild flowers, mint and marzipan. Rich, sensual and layered, the 2004 is another wine that impresses for its personality and breadth. The 2004 is in an in between stage today, where the aromas and flavors are no longer vibrant, nor are they fully mature. I suggest giving the 2004 another year or two to get past this slightly awkward stage. Still, there is no question the 2004 is beautiful today, but it will be even more beautiful with time. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.

Wine:  Grande Sendree Rose

Wine:  Millesime Exception

Wine:  Millesime Exception Jeroboam

Wine:  Millesime Exception Magnum

The 2002 Brut Millesime Exception is wonderfully crisp and vibrant, with layers of green apples, pears and flowers that come together in a highly appealing glass of Champagne. The 2002 Exception is very young at this stage, but with air some of the austerity blows off, revealing the crystalline purity of the fruit. This elegant, precise Champagne will be even better in a few years’ time. This is Lot LP 1606810, disgorged March, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025.

Wine:  Quattuor Blanc de Blancs

The NV Brut Blanc de Quatre Blancs Quattuor is laced with hazelnuts, almonds, orange peel and dried pears. There is an attractive, oxidative quality that makes the NV Quatre Blancs Quattuor quite appealing. A gracious, crystalline finish adds considerable finesse and weightlessness in this expressive, layered Champagne. The wine keeps getting better and better with time in the glass, so some advance aeration is probably a good idea. Sweet and floral. Disgorgement date July 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.

Wine:  Signature Blanc de Blancs

Exclussively from a first pressing of 100% Chardonnay. 91 points: A lithe Champagne, powered by racy acidity. Offers fine texture and flavors of white peach, candied lemon zest, pastry dough and crystallized honey, with a firm, minerally finish. Drink now through 2020. 3,000 cases made. WS

Wine:  Cuvée 735

The NV Brut Cuvee N° 735 is a gorgeous, fleshy wine laced with radiant fruit. Lemon, white flowers, spices and crushed rocks are some of the notes that inform this deep, satisfying Champagne. A round, creamy finish wraps things up in style. The 735 got better and better over time, always a good sign. The 735 is 72% 2007 juice, 47% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir and 20% Meunier. It is a bit richer, rounder and more immediate than the 734, not a bad thing for a wine meant to be enjoyed on the young side. This bottle was disgorged in the first quarter, 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015.

Wine:  Cuvée 736

I also tasted the NV Brut Cuvee No. 736, which Jean-Herve Chiquet disgorged ‘a la volee,’ which means the wine is not technically finished, hence the score in parentheses. The 736 is based on the 2008 vintage, a year that yielded pure, racy Champagnes built on energy and tension, a style I personally like quite a bit. The 736 presents incredible aromatic nuance and layers of finely sculpted, chiseled fruit. An intense, saline and citrus-laced finish rounds things out in style. This is shaping up to be a great 700-series Champagne from Jacquesson, perhaps the best yet. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023.

Wine:  Vintage 1997

Wine:  Vintage 2000

The 2000 Brut Millesime is warm, rich wine loaded with fruit. A blend of 50% Chardonnay (Avize Champ Cain) and 50% Pinot (Ay Vauzelle Terme, Verzenay and Dizy). The 2000 Brut Millesime shows tons of depth. Clean, mineral notes round out the gorgeous finish. Slightly advanced aromas and flavors typical of the vintage suggest this won’t be terribly long lived. That said, it is an excellent choice for readers looking for a 2000 that shows early signs of maturity. Hazelnuts, berries, flowers and smoke are some of the nuances that linger on the powerful finish. This bottle was disgorged in Q4 2009. Dosage was 2.5 grams per liter. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.

Wine:  Cuvee Rose

Wine:  Ultra Brut

Wine:  Cuvee Prestige Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

Le Mesnil, Founded in 1937, the Le Mesnil cooperative sells most of its production to Salon and Laurent Perrier. Under the expert guidance of Gilles Marguet, Le Mesnil has gone from strength to strength. Long passed are the days when the word Co-operative invited evasion and disdain. This spends 5 years on the lees and has the structure and concentration to age well for a decade.

Wine:  Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

Le Mesnil, Founded in 1937, the Le Mesnil cooperative sells most of its production to Salon and Laurent Perrier. Under the expert guidance of Gilles Marguet, Le Mesnil has gone from strength to strength. Long passed are the days when the word Co-operative invited evasion and disdain. This spends 5 years on the lees and has the structure and concentration to age well for a decade.

Wine:  Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

Le Mesnil, Founded in 1937, the Le Mesnil cooperative sells most of its production to Salon and Laurent Perrier. Under the expert guidance of Gilles Marguet, Le Mesnil has gone from strength to strength. Long passed are the days when the word Co-operative invited evasion and disdain. This spends 5 years on the lees and has the structure and concentration to age well for a decade.

Wine:  Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Magnum

Le Mesnil, Founded in 1937, the Le Mesnil cooperative sells most of its production to Salon and Laurent Perrier. Under the expert guidance of Gilles Marguet, Le Mesnil has gone from strength to strength. Long passed are the days when the word Co-operative invited evasion and disdain. This spends 5 years on the lees and has the structure and concentration to age well for a decade.

Wine:  Sublime Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

Le Mesnil, Founded in 1937, the Le Mesnil cooperative sells most of its production to Salon and Laurent Perrier. Under the expert guidance of Gilles Marguet, Le Mesnil has gone from strength to strength. Long passed are the days when the word Co-operative invited evasion and disdain. This spends 5 years on the lees and has the structure and concentration to age well for a decade.

Wine:  Sublime Grand Cru Rose

Le Mesnil, Founded in 1937, the Le Mesnil cooperative sells most of its production to Salon and Laurent Perrier. Under the expert guidance of Gilles Marguet, Le Mesnil has gone from strength to strength. Long passed are the days when the word Co-operative invited evasion and disdain. This spends 5 years on the lees and has the structure and concentration to age well for a decade.

Wine:  Blanc de Blanc

Wine:  Brut

Wine:  Pure

Wine:  Rich

Wine:  Blanc de Noir Brut