Wine Cellar

Wine:  Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire Blanc

Bertrand Amboise is based in Nuits St George and makes very serious reds. But don’t be put off by the appellation; there is nothing ordinary about this wine. Bertrand explains that the Chardonnay for this comes from “white soil,” just outside of NSG, which he says is perfect for the varietal. But the vines are located just outside of the limits for Bourgogne Blanc, hence the more global appellation of Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire. It is textured, light lemony and crisp with a hint of flinty complexity.

Wine:  Echezeaux Grand Cru

35+ year old vines divided 50/50 between Poulaillères and Champs Traversin. Heavy reduction completely obliterates the nose. By contrast, the opulent and broad-scaled flavors are strikingly well-concentrated with firm but not especially rough tannins and the finishing length and intensity are seriously impressive. This too should amply reward 12 to 15 years of cellar time.

Drinking period: 2024+

Wine:  Bourgogne Rouge La Taupe

This comes from a plot near Pommard - Jamie Goode 90/100. So attractive, perfumed bright red berry fruit. Lacy, succulent delicate and floral. Textured palate with freshness and a hint of garrigue. Sensational drinking and a bargain for R175

Wine:  Echezeaux

Tasting note: Very mild reduction diminishes only slightly the interest of the red currant, violets, earth and exuberant spice notes. There is excellent volume to the very rich, round and pure medium-bodied flavors that possess highly sophisticated tannins that are already well integrated on the powerful, focused and stunningly long finish. This is generous to the point of opulence on the mid-palate yet there is again faultless balance that suggests that this should age effortlessly. LANDING DECEMBER 2012

Wine:  La Romanee

The La Romanee has one of those bouquets when you instantly know it is “the business”. There is no need to patiently wait and coax out the aromas; it instantly delivers a heady smorgasbord of haunting dark berry fruit inflected with scents of flint and limestone. The palate is medium-bodied with strict tannins, very linear at this stage, yet there is incredible poise married with ineffable delicacy. This must count as one of the finest La Romanee’s since it was prized out of Bouchard’s hands. Stunning, even if you do not get much change out of a tenner. LANDING DECEMBER 2012

Wine:  Nuits St Georges Les Lavieres

Tasting note: Reduction. The supple and round flavors are deceptively forward as this glides across the palate before culminating in an extract rich and mouth coating finish that tightens up quickly to reveal a firm tannic spine and excellent length. This too is a villages of excellent quality. from a .13 ha parcel of 80+ year old vines LANDING DECEMBER 2012

Wine:  Vosne Romanée

Tasting note: A fresh, elegant and admirably pure nose of red and blue pinot fruit trimmed in spice and violets leads to cool and equally pure middle weight flavors that possess a velvety mouth feel before terminating in a precise and persistent finish. This is a really lovely villages and worth a look. LANDING DECEMBER 2012

Wine:  Vosne Romanée 1er Chaumes

Tasting note: Reduction. The medium-bodied and very appealingly textured medium-bodied flavors possess excellent mid-palate concentration and fine volume all the while preserving the silky mouth feel on the firm, precise and solidly persistent finish. This is very Vosne with a lovely inner mouth perfume. from vines planted in 1945; in 2010 this was vinified with <15% whole clusters LANDING DECEMBER 2012

Wine:  Vosne Romanée 1er Reignots

Tasting note: Reduction. A wonderfully beguiling inner mouth perfumed of spice and black fruit liqueur adds considerable interest to the intensely mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that possess a highly sensuous mouth feel, all wrapped in a transparent, tension-filled and impeccably well-balanced finish that delivers truly superb length. This is an exceptionally classy and refined effort. the Liger-Belair vines in this small vineyard run from top to bottom whereas the others are situated in segments; Cathiard is on top, Grivot in the middle and Arnoux at the bottom LANDING DECEMBER 2012

Wine:  Chablis

Wine:  Chablis

Tasting note: This is also quite floral and citrus-infused though here there is an attractive addition of mineral reduction and iodine hints. The textured medium weight flavors possess a seductive mouth feel as well as fine complexity before terminating in a delicious, dry, clean and well-balanced finish. This persistent effort offers very solid quality and is worth a look.

Wine:  Chablis 1er cru Beauroy

Tasting note: A notably ripe but not exotic nose that expresses mostly yellow orchard fruit aromas that enjoy a dose of sea breeze and sea shell nuances. The supple, round and generous middle weight flavors possess a background hint of minerality along with enough acidity to maintain good focus and solid balance. There is not a great deal of complexity but the overall effect is undeniably delicious.

Wine:  Chablis 1er cru Côte de Léchet

Tasting note: Here too there is some pre-bottling sulfur that knocks down the nose of citrus and tidal pool aromas somewhat. There is good verve and punch however to the rich, delicious, well-detailed and refined flavors that culminate in an admirably pure, tangy and cool finish. While a bit awkward today, this should be lovely in time.

Wine:  Chablis 1er cru Les Lys

Tasting note: Like several of the wines in the range, the nose of this wine was difficult to properly assess due to it being dominated by the pre-bottling sulfur addition. On the palate though there is excellent detail to the rich, concentrated and serious flavors that possess outstanding intensity as well as impeccable balance as the acid spine is quite firm but not hard. The ripe acidity shapes the palate impression as well as maintains focus and this should age extremely well. In sum, this is a classic Les Lys.

Wine:  Chablis 1er cru Vaillons

Tasting note: A bit of unabsorbed pre-bottling SO2 renders the otherwise pretty nose of floral and oyster shell nuances more difficult to assess. Undoubtedly because of the presence of Les Lys in the blend, this is really quite refined with delicious, pure and well-detailed flavors that possess a beguiling mouth feel, all wrapped in a subtly mineral-driven, balanced and focused finish. Indeed about the only nit is the slightest hint of backend warmth, which will probably be all but invisible if the proper serving temperature is maintained.

Wine:  Mercurey Blanc

Wine:  Mercurey Rouge 1er Clos du Roi

Wine:  Mercurey Rouge 1er Les Ruelles

Wine:  Clos des Lambrays

A notably ripe nose of cassis and black cherry liqueur notes that are nuanced by warm earth hints that continue onto the rich, round and seductively textured flavors that possess good energy on the solidly well-concentrated finish. This is delicious if not especially refined.

Wine:  Clos des Lambrays

Tasting note: A highly expressive and very broad nose of superb aromatic complexity that includes earth, game, spice, red currant, plum, violets and a hint of the sauvage. The round and supple flavors possess outstanding detail and while the complexity doesn't quite match that of the exquisite nose, it's not far behind and this culminates in a beautifully balanced and harmonious finish that delivers striking persistence. The 2009 version is bigger, richer and more power while the 2010 is much more of a wine of finesse and refinement. LANDING OCT 2012 ALL INCLUSIVE

Wine:  Morey Saint Denis

A fresh, bright, clean and very pretty nose of crystal pure red pinot fruit aromas leads to lilting and lacy barely middle weight flavors that possess lovely precision and punch on the lingering finish. This is on the lighter side and lacks just a bit of depth at present though the balance is such that this could add complexity in time.

Wine:  Morey Saint Denis

Wine:  Morey Saint Denis

Tasting note: A touch of reduction does not completely undermine the attractiveness of the otherwise pretty red berry fruit and soft earth notes. By contrast, there is lovely purity of expression to the refined, detailed and lightly mineral-inflected flavors that culminate in a linear and solidly persistent finish. This is a very fine villages. LANDING OCT 2012, ALL INCLUSIVE

Wine:  Morey Saint Denis 1er cru Les Loups

A more deeply pitched and distinctly more complex nose combines the same purity of expression with the red pinot fruit, warm earth, floral notes and a discreet hint of animale that carries over to the refined and more concentrated medium-bodied flavors that display a subtle mineral streak on the solidly persistent finish.

Wine:  Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru

Wine:  Chambolle 1er Cru Chatelots

Tasting note: Here the reduction is strong enough to hamper a clear evaluation of the nose though it seems evident that the underlying fruit is ripe. In contrast to the funky nose, there is good freshness and energy to the round yet solidly precise medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a delicious and mineral-inflected finish where the supporting tannins are perfectly well-integrated. LANDING DECEMBER 2012

Wine:  Chambolle 1er Cru les Cras

Tasting note: A dramatic, densely fruited and polished nose speaks of spiced purple fruit and floral aromas, particularly violets. The strikingly well-detailed, intense and mineral-driven flavors are supported by seemingly buckets of dry extract as well as refined and sophisticated tannins that contribute to this wine's perfect sense of harmony on the explosive finish. Wow, this is a seriously impressive effort that should also age extremely well though note that significant patience will be required. LANDING DECEMBER 2012

Wine:  Chambolle Musigny

Tasting note: An ultra-elegant, airy and cool nose of essence of red pinot fruit and stone aromas leads to clean and equally pure middle weight flavors that are very Chambolle in character, all wrapped in a dusty, delicious, balanced and linear finish. An excellent villages that should reward 5 to 7 years of cellaring. LANDING DECEMBER 2012

Wine:  Clos de Vougeot Musigni

Tasting note: Here the less obviously oaked nose runs more toward the red side of the fruit spectrum before merging into rich and seductively textured broad-shouldered flavors that are also blessed with ample amounts of dry extract that renders the supporting tannins almost invisible on the detailed, youthfully austere and solidly persistent finish.

Wine:  Vosne Romanée 1er Chaumes

A similar nose that is trimmed in discreet wood notes gives way to richer, fuller, more concentrated and notably more structured medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a sappy and lingering finish. Like the regular cuvée, this is a serious Bourgogne but here villages-level quality is attained. Definitely worth your consideration.

Wine:  Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

Tasting note: Very mild reduction moderately reduces the expressiveness of the honeysuckle, white peach and pear suffused nose. There is unusually good underlying tension to the precise and lightly mineral suffused medium weight plus flavors that culminate in an almost painfully intense, driving and tautly muscular finish where a touch of wood surfaces. Within the context of the appellation, this is a powerful and unusually linear Bienvenues that has no trouble standing up to the Bâtard in terms of intensity if not size and weight, something that is rarely the case. LANDING OCT 2012

Wine:  Bonnes Mares

Tasting note: Mild reduction presently reduces the expressiveness of the nose though it seems reasonably apparent that the underlying fruit is quite ripe. There is impressive concentration to the powerful and overtly muscular broad-shouldered flavors that possess a velvety mouth feel. Interestingly for such a big wine is just how fine-grained the tannins are and the abundant sap has no trouble buffering them on the hugely long finish. This is beautifully balanced and should be capable of fully rewarding the ample patience that it will require before it's fully ready. Magnificent. LANDING OCT 2010 ALL INCLUSIVE

Wine:  Bourgogne Rouge

from Santenay and Beaune 1ers with the rest entirely from villages level appellations Tasting note: A deeply pitched nose features ripe dark berry fruit and plenty of earth influence that extends to the brooding, concentrated and serious medium-bodied flavors that are round, long and well-balanced. Despite the somber demeanor, this should drink well after only a few years of bottle age. I should also point out that this easily delivers villages level quality.

Wine:  Corton Charlemagne

Tasting note: This is presently sufficiently reduced that I would strongly recommend decanting it if you're tempted to try one young. Here the aromatic profile is distinctly different from any of the preceding grands crus as the primary fruit element is green rather than white or yellow though there are apple, pear and plenty of mineral notes in the background. The rich, powerful and focused big-bodied flavors exhibit almost painful intensity as there is a plethora of mouth coating extract that buffers the very firm tannic spine that allows all of this size and weight to remain exquisitely well-balanced. This is not quite as complex or persistent as the Montrachet but it's not far off and in any case, it does precisely what it's supposed to do which is to be an excellent example of Corton-Charlemagne, not Montrachet.

Wine:  Meursault

Tasting note: Here the profile of the aromatics changes with its combination of hazelnut, dried rose petal, pear and white peach scents. There is good volume to the round, generous and naturally sweet flavors that exude a fine minerality on the balanced, persistent and unusually refined finish. An excellent villages that is well-worth considering.

Wine:  Meursault 1er Charmes

Tasting note: This also displays notes of pear and hazelnut along with hints of wood toast and oak spice. The medium-bodied flavors are rich and generous yet retain a fine sense of underlying tension while displaying a persistent, linear and highly complex finale. A classic upper slope Charmes as there is also ample minerality. LANDING OCT 2012

Wine:  Meursault 1er Genevrières

Tasting note: A hint of residual SO2 doesn't seriously detract from the ever-so-mildly exotic floral, pear and white peach aromas that are followed by rich and mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration and mouth coating extract. The firm acid spine shapes and supports the driving finish that also displays that Chablis-like saline character. In a word, terrific.

Wine:  Pommard 1er Les Rugiens

In contrast to the expressiveness of many of the prior wines, this is closed to the point of being aromatically mute and even aggressive swirling coaxes very little from the nose. There is however simply superb power, detail, energy and complexity to the almost painfully intense flavors that culminate in a strikingly explosive and lengthy finish. This is most impressive and should also age extremely well.

Wine:  Puligny 1er Clos De La Mouchère

Tasting note: This is slightly riper and notably more complex than the straight Puligny villages but the aromatic composition is similar save for the trace of mineral reduction that is present here. The racy, intense and strikingly well-delineated flavors possess that really lovely sense of underlying tension that adds lift to the stony, linear and bone dry finish. This is a knockout. LANDING OCT 2012

Wine:  Puligny Montrachet

Tasting note: Discreet but not invisible sulfur presently diminishes the attractiveness of the otherwise pure, refined and airy dried rose petal, pear and apple suffused nose that complements well the rich, refined and impressively intense flavors that possess a silky and sophisticated mouth feel, all wrapped in a lingering, balanced and sappy finish. This is very Puligny in character. LANDING OCT 2012

Wine:  Puligny Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets

Tasting note: An ultra-elegant and beautifully pure nose of Chablis-style mineral reduction, rose petal, pear and background notes of spice, particularly anise and clove, introduces stony, racy and tautly muscular middle weight flavors that conclude in an explosive, hugely long and palate staining finish. The balance is impeccable and this should amply reward 8 to 10 years of cellar time. LANDING OCT 2012

Wine:  Volnay 1er Les Fremiets

Tasting note: This was noticeably reduced and I strongly advise decanting it if you're going to try an example young. By contrast there is good vivacity to the detailed and pure middle weight flavors that are shaped by extremely fine tannins that are notably more structured than the villages. At present, the flavor profile is quite compact and firm and this will require at least 10 years to be at its best and 12 would not surprise me LANDING OCT 2012 ALL INCLUSIVE

Wine:  Volnay 1er Santenots

Tasting note: Aromatically speaking, this is not all that dissimilar from the Champans except that it's more restrained and adds a note of black cherry as well. There is excellent mid-palate concentration to the impressively complex and mouth coating flavors that brim with dry extract that confers a velvety texture onto the lingering finish. The underlying tannins are notably firm but well-integrated but note that this too will need ample cellar time to arrive at its peak. LANDING OCT 2012 ALL INCLUSIVE

Wine:  Bourgogne Pinot Noir

The 2010 Bourgogne Rouge has a simple, crisp nose with redcurrant and tomato leaf aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, fine delineation and great purity and touches of Morello and fresh strawberry towards the finish. This is a lovely Bourgogne Rouge.

Wine:  Chambolle Musigny

(from a 7 ha parcel). A ripe and expressive nose that is clearly Chablis in character leads to delicious, round and relatively soft flavors that culminate in a saline-infused finish. This very forward effort could easily be enjoyed now. 87/2012+

Wine:  Chambolle Musigny

Tasting note: A hint of wood spice can be discerned through a reduced nose but not much else. The racy, pure and well-detailed flavors evidence a hint of minerality on the mouth coating, intense and lacy finish that gives the impression of being very Chambollesque. Lovely and fashioned in an understated style. LANDING OCT 2012

Wine:  Clos de Vougeot

Tasting note: A very mild floral hint adds elegance to the ripe red berry fruit and distinctly earth-inflected nose. There is excellent richness to the impressively scaled and overtly powerful flavors that possess fine balance and focus on the lingering finish. Lovely juice with a bit less youthful austerity than I typically find with this wine. Note: from two separate parcels, one to the left of the Château and another situated to the right by the Méo-Camuzet vines; the 2010 was vinified with about 10% whole clusters LANDING OCT 2012

Wine:  Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers

Tasting note: A spicy and relatively elegant nose features notes of red and blue pinot fruit and while there are warm earth nuances, they are more of a background element than usual. The seductively textured, round and well-concentrated medium-bodied flavors also possess excellent complexity and a bit more refinement as well on the balanced and lingering finish. LANDING OCT 2012

Wine:  Richebourg Grand Cru

Tasting note: Here the ever-so-slightly riper nose displays a restrained combination of red currant and plum aromas that also offer an intense spiciness. There is excellent richness and muscle to the big-bodied and impressively vibrant medium weight plus flavors that possess fine mid-palate concentration before culminating in a palate staining and magnificently long finish. There is power here but overall this is more a Riche of elegance than brawn. I very much like this. LANDING OCT 2012

Wine:  Vosne Romanée

This is also quite ripe but here the nose is a bit more elegant as the fruit is airier and not quite as earth-inflected. The plumy and delicious middle weight flavors possess both good precision and an attractive touch of minerality on the dusty and slightly bitter finish that displays a hint of youthful asperity. The bitterness should pass as I suspect that it's more due to the significant amount of gas than the possibility of under ripe tannins in a vintage like 2009. For the patient as this will not be a precocious Mercurey.

Wine:  Vosne Romanée

Tasting note: This is also reduced but there is an elegant and very pure mouth feel to the sophisticated and silky medium-bodied flavors that are blessed with fine balance on the dusty and lingering finish. This is also a lovely villages and I very much like the style plus it should amply reward mid-term cellaring. this has some young vines 1ers added to a blend of Maizières and Les Vigneux LANDING OCT 2012

Wine:  Vosne Romanée 1er Beaumonts

Tasting note: This had just been racked and not surprisingly was quite closed though aggressive swirling coaxed grudging aromas of spice, wet stone and cassis. The pure and intensely mineral-inflected flavors are shaped by exceptionally fine-grained tannins as well as excellent length on the pure, balanced and energetic finish. This is a wine of finesse and while it's notably finer than the Suchots, it's not as complex or at least not yet. LANDING OCT 2012

Wine:  Vosne Romanée 1er Suchots

A highly complex and very Vosne nose features mild wood influence along with abundant spice notes on the red currant, plum and black cherry fruit and violet suffused aromas that are very much in keeping with the rich, seductive and velvet-textured flavors that evidence controlled power. This is quite suave but there is fine definition, focus and excellent length. In a word, terrific.

Wine:  Vougeot 1er Petits Vougeots

Tasting note: Very mild reduction reduces the expressiveness but does not fully hide the otherwise fresh and airy red pinot fruit and earth suffused nose. There is good detail and excellent verve to the balanced, intense and relatively refined finish. In 2010, this is definitely more Chambolle than Vougeot in basic character. LANDING OCT 2012

Wine:  Beaune 1er Champs Pimont Blanc

Discreet but not invisible wood sets off the fresh and bright nose of sliced lemon, white flower and subtle wet stone notes that are also picked up by the vibrant middle weight flavors that possess good mid-palate fat, all wrapped in a dry and mildly saline-influenced finish. Lovely and fashioned in an understated style.

Wine:  Beaune 1er Champs Pimont Blanc

Tasting note: Here the nose is quite similar to that of the villages except that it's more overtly spiced. The medium-bodied flavors are very rich, indeed almost tender with a dusty and sappy mouth feel, all wrapped in a mildly oaked finish that is quite sweet. This is declassified Echézeaux from vines located in Loächausses

Drinking period: 2014+

Wine:  Beaune Clos De La Feguine

Wine:  Clos Des Santenotes Volnay

Wine:  Corton Bressandes

Tasting note: The natural elevated ripeness of Bressandes is on display here as it's noticeably riper than the Chambertin with its kirsch and blue pinot fruit liqueur nose that is spiked with soft mineral and earth hints. There is a rich, round and very fleshy feel to the medium-bodied flavors that possess fine concentration and admirably ripe supporting structure before terminating in a powerful, focused, balanced and solidly deep finish. This is good stuff and textbook Bressandes.

Wine:  Corton Charlemagne

In contrast to the expressiveness of many of the prior wines, this is closed to the point of being aromatically mute and even aggressive swirling coaxes very little from the nose. There is however simply superb power, detail, energy and complexity to the almost painfully intense flavors that culminate in a strikingly explosive and lengthy finish. This is most impressive and should also age extremely well.

Drinking period: 2021+