Wine Cellar

Wine:  Pessac leognan

Wine:  St Emilion

Fruity, soft and fully mature, the 2008 Barde-Haut offers up notes of licorice, roasted herbs, cedar and spice. Medium-bodied with an evolved, endearing character, it should be enjoyed over the next 5-6 years.

Wine:  Pauillac

A sleeper of the vintage, Batailley’s complex 2004 is redolent with notes of cedar wood, spice box, plums, cassis, tar, and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, supple textured, layered, rich, and long, it marks the renaissance of this fifth-growth Pauillac that is displaying strong signs of moving into the big leagues. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2025.

Wine:  St Emilion

A wine of considerable nobility and breed, the 2001 Beausejour Duffau possesses a classic perfume of crushed stones and blueberries. This delicate, elegant offering is clearly a wine of terroir. Its subtle nature, pure, stylish flavors, and striking aromatics make it easy to dismiss in a blind peer group tasting, but do not make that mistake. There is a lot going on here, and the wine’s personality as well as complexity are stunning. It should hit its prime in 1-3 years, and drink well for 12-15.

Wine:  St Emilion

A chalky component to the tannins is somewhat troubling, but otherwise, the 2004 Bellevue possesses impressive credentials. Its dense ruby/purple-hued color is followed by aromas of crushed rocks, sweet cherry and currant fruit, and background new oak. Medium to full-bodied with moderately sharp tannin, but terrific fruit purity, texture, and a real sense of its place of origin, this structured wine is meant for serious connoisseurs. It will need 4-5 years of cellaring, and should last for 15-20.

Wine:  St Julien

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

Wine:  St Julien

Wine:  St Julien

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

This superb 2008 exhibits lots of fig, honeysuckle, orange zest and lemon butter notes. It should drink well for 15-20 years. Compared to 2006 and 2007, the 2008 dry white wines of Bordeaux are inferior, but that does not mean they are not very good. They do not possess the flesh, power, or richness of the 2006 and 2007, but they reveal precise, intensely aromatic personalities, lighter bodies, and more noticeable acidity. These remain among the world’s most underrated world-class dry white wines. I will provide full tasting notes once they are in bottle, but following are the dry whites I tasted along with their approximate scores.

Wine:  Pauillac

A wine with good plum and raspberry aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, with silky tannins and a short finish. Good but not special. Best after 2008.

Wine:  St Julien 375ml

Wine:  St Emilion

Revealing considerable amber in its dark plum/garnet color, this intensely fragrant 1982 is somewhat of a paradox in that the front end suggests full maturity, but the mid-palate, finish, and overall texture denote a closed wine. A gorgeously sweet entry displays flavors of caramel, roasted coffee, jammy red and black fruits, coconut, and smoke. It is fat and full-bodied, with considerable tannin, structure, and muscle in the finish. Flamboyantly rich and precocious early in life, it is going through an awkward stage where the tannin is present, but it is also sexy, juicy, and formidably-structured. When the 1982 Cheval Blanc's component parts become totally in sync, it will be capable of meriting a three-digit rating. Anticipated maturity: now (?)-2015.

Wine:  Pessac Leognan Magnum

Le Clarence de Haut-Brion: The super 2008 (45% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc) exhibits soft, ripe tannins as well as copious black cherry and loamy soil notes intermixed with notions of smoke and roasted herbs. It is a beautifully pure, deep, already delicious and complex wine that should drink nicely for 10-12 years.

Wine:  Pomerol

Another resounding success for the vintage, the opaque purple-colored 2008 Clinet (14.4% alcohol) is composed of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Yields of 38 hectoliters per hectare, while higher than in 2010, were still modest. Another powerful, big, large-scaled effort, the 2008 exhibits an inky/purple color as well as sweet creme de cassis, blackberry, plum, Asian spice, licorice and incense notes. Layered and full-bodied with stunning purity and a 40+ second finish, this beauty needs 3-5 years of bottle age and should keep for 25-30 years.

Wine:  St Julien Magnum

As usual, the second wine, the 2006 Clos du Marquis, exhibits a character similar to the grand vin, but it is a more fruit-forward effort with sweeter tannins, and a more precocious, evolved personality. With super intense black cherry and cedary notes intermixed with hints of licorice and barrique, this deep, medium to full-bodied, velvety-textured wine is ideal for consumption over the next 15+ years.

Wine:  St Estephe

The exceptional 2006 Cos d’Estournel is composed of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot, 55% of the production was utilized. Revealing superb intensity for a 2006 as well as an inky/blue/purple color, and a sweet bouquet of blue and black fruits, licorice, graphite, and charcoal, this full-bodied 2006 possesses high levels of sweet tannin. This wine is characterized by a freshness and precision that give it a 1996-like affinity. Enjoy this beautifully concentrated, exceptionally pure, statuesque Cos d’Estournel over the next 20-25 years. By the way, it was bottled without any fining or filtration.

Wine:  Pauillac

2 Fingers

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

Olive, cedar, earth, charcoal, and smoky characteristics are present in this light to medium-bodied, attractive, soft, well-made 1999. It is captivating, but not deep. This wine will provide pleasure over the next 7-8 years.

Wine:  Margaux

A wonderful success of the vintage, the 2008 d'Issan exhibits a dark plum/garnet/purple color as well as abundant aromas of flowers, Asian spices, jammy plums and black currants. Broad, savory and medium to full-bodied with sweet tannin and an evolved, already delicious, complex style, this cuvee will age nicely for 10-15 years.

Wine:  Pauillac

Wine:  Sauternes

While no surprise here, this wine, which will be bottled in 2009, is certainly this estate’s greatest effort since their 2001. It completely outclasses everything from the appellation, but even when you’re number one, that’s often hard to do. This light gold wine offers up a sensational smorgasbord of aromas including huge honeyed pineapple and other caramelized tropical fruit flavors, massive richness, and a viscous, unctuous texture with the oak beautifully integrated. The wine has enough acidity to buttress its full-bodied mouthfeel, but this is not by any means the sweetest or most alcoholic of the d’Yquems I have tasted. In fact, in the range of d’Yquems, this is a powerful wine, but it is one built more on finesse and elegance, a la the 1988. Nevertheless, this wine will prove to have 50+ years of longevity. The finish, the mid-palate, the sensation of looking at a skyscraper of Semillon with a small dosage of Sauvignon, is impressive. Like all of the sweet wines of Barsac and Sauternes, one can drink this young, but the nuances and complexities really don’t emerge for at least a decade, especially in the case of a wine such as this. Bravo!

Wine:  "Y" d'Yqrec Blanc

The 2007 Ygrec has a light, fragrant nose with apple-blossom, pink grapefruit, citrus lemon and just a touch of cold granite. Good definition. The palate is bright and lively, a lot of energy packed into this Ygrec, with citrus lemon, green apple, a touch of lemongrass, very harmonious and smooth towards the finish that display superb persistency, a hint of fiery lemongrass lingering in the mouth. Drink now-2020.

Wine:  Pomerol

A remarkable wine in this vintage, L’Eglise Clinet’s 2008 has a color almost as dark as the barrel sample of 2010. Classic mocha and caramel-infused creme de cassis and black cherry notes, with hints of licorice and loamy soil soar from the glass of this opaque ruby/purple, aromatically compelling wine. Opulent, expansive, and savory, with a broad texture, a full-bodied mouthfeel, terrific purity and a layered finish, this is another big, massive wine that transcends the vintage character, and will probably need 7-10 years of bottle age. It should keep for 20 or more years as well.

Wine:  St Emilion

65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Carmenère. From Alain Vauthier of Chateau Ausone. Dark. Intriguing and exotic nose. Very racy and very dry finish. Muscular and lots of acidity. Needs time. Lots of fresh energy. Wait! Dry finish.

Wine:  St Emilion

Wine:  Pauillac

Tasted at the chateau. The nose is very fresh, leaping out the glass, with fresh blackberry, raspberry, a touch of gravel and graphite. It has brilliant definition and focus. The palate is tannic on the entry, a masculine Pauillac as always, a little austere but not excessively so. Ripe fresh black fruits, a touch of soy and cedar, vibrant and focused towards the tannic finish with a saline aftertaste that develops more silkiness as it aerates in the glass. Beautiful. Drink 2015-2040. Tasted October 2010.

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

A candidate for the -wine of the vintage,- the 2008 Haut-Bailly possesses incredible complexity. Tell-tale notes of lead pencil shavings, charcoal, damp earth, black cherries and black currants intermixed with a hint of subtle barbecue smoke are present in this classic, quintessential Graves. Medium-bodied with an emerging, precocious complexity, it is a super-pure, beautifully textured, long wine that can be drunk now or cellared for 20-25 years. Bravo!

Wine:  Pauillac

The finesse-styled 2008 offers sweet berry fruit notes intermixed with notions of herbs, black currants and black cherries. Drink this elegant, mid-weight, silky smooth Pauillac over the next decade.

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

This continues to be one of the immortal wines and one of the greatest young Bordeaux wines of the last half-century. Consistently prodigious and almost a sure bet to top the scoring card of any blind tasting of this vintage as well as other years, the 1989 Haut-Brion is a seamless, majestic classic, and a tribute to this phenomenal terroir and its singular characteristics. The wine still has a very thick, viscous-looking ruby/purple color, a spectacular, young but awesome smorgasbord of aromas ranging from scorched earth, liquid minerals, graphite, blackberry and black currant jam to toast, licorice, and spice box. The levels of fruit, extract, and glycerin in this viscous, full-bodied, low-acid wine are awe-inspiring. The brilliant symmetry of the wine, extraordinary purity, and seamlessness are the hallmarks of a modern-day legend. It is still in its pre-adolescent stage of development, and I would not expect it to hit its full plateau of maturity for another 3-5 years, but this should be an Haut-Brion that rivals the greatest ever made at this estate. Life is too short not to drink this wine as many times as possible! A modern day clone of the 1959? Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030. Last tasted, 1/03.

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

This wine has been brilliant on every occasion I have tasted it. More accessible and forward than the 1996, it possesses a saturated ruby/purple color, as well as a beautiful, knock-out set of aromatics, consisting of black fruits, vanillin, spice, and wood-fire smoke. Multidimensional and rich, with layers of ripe fruit, and beautifully integrated tannin and acidity, this medium to full-bodied wine is a graceful, seamless, exceptional Haut-Brion that should drink surprisingly well young. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2030.

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

Medium to deep garnet colour. The nose is still a little mute giving a moderate intensity of youthful aromas: ripe plums, cassis, Chinese five spice, moss and a fair amount of cedar. Oak tannins seem to dominate the structure contributing to the taut astringency of the palate yet there is a good amount of ripe berry and earthy fruit plus medium acidity to balance. Long earthy finish. Drink 2012 to 2034. Tasted February 2009.

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

The 2006 Haut-Brion performed even better from bottle than it did from barrel. Sixty-four percent of the production went into this wine, and while it displays the vintage’s powerful tannins and structure, it possesses superb concentration, and the minerality/scorched earth notes of a great Haut-Brion. Medium to full-bodied, with perhaps not quite the fleshiness of the 2005 or 2000, it is built more along the lines of the 1998 and 1996. It is a brilliant effort displaying sensational purity, texture, and length that should be exceptionally long-lived. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2035 .

Wine:  Margaux 375ml

Wine:  Pomerol

The 2006 is relatively forward and seductive, as one expects La Conseillante to be, with a dark ruby/purple-tinged color and a beautifully sweet nose of black raspberries, plums, kirsch, cedar, and licorice. A broad, savory, seductive, full-bodied mouthfeel with superb ripeness, silky tannins, and terrific complexity make this an ethereal style of Pomerol. A must taste. Drink it over the next 15+ years.

Wine:  Pauillac

Since I gave this wine a perfect score, I suppose some could see this as a downgrade. I found everything still there for a perfect rating, but I was just struck by how tight and backward the wine was. A blend of 93.3% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, the wine still has a dark ruby/purple color and an extraordinarily youthful nose of graphite, black currants, sweet, unsmoked cigar tobacco, and flowers. The wine is rich, medium to full-bodied, but has that ethereal elegance and purity that is always Lafite. I originally predicted that it would first reach maturity in 2011, but I would push that back by 5-7 years now, although it has 50-60 years of life in front of it. Owners of this beauty are probably best advised to forget it for 5 years. Tasted next to a 1996 several days after the 2000 tasting, the 1996, which is a perfect wine, was far closer to full maturity than the 2000.

Wine:  Pauillac

One of the fabulous surprises, although I had suggested last year that it could jump in quality, of my tastings, the 2006 Lafite Rothschild is a great, great wine made from a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot. When I tasted it from barrel, it reminded me of their successful 1988, but it is dramatically superior to that vintage. Frankly, it may turn out to be as good as the 2005, which in all of Bordeaux is a far greater vintage than 2006. Lafite’s severe selection process (42% made it into the grand vin) resulted in a full-bodied wine boasting an extraordinary perfume of charcoal, truffles, lead pencil shavings, and sensationally sweet, ripe black currant and cedar notes. A wine of extraordinary intensity, texture, and depth with silky tannins as well as awesome concentration, this has turned out to be a remarkable Lafite Rothschild that should be drinkable much earlier than the 2005, but age for three decades. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2035

Wine:  Pomerol

Mid Shoulder

Wine:  St Estephe

A strong effort for this vintage, the 2008 exhibits a dark plum/purple color, plenty of firm, rugged, austere tannins, copious red and black fruits, admirable flavor intensity and medium body. Cellar it for 3-4 years and drink it over the following 15.

Wine:  St Julien

This was a successful vintage for Lagrange, as well as the last wine made under the old regime. Perhaps the 1982 is not the equal of the excellent 1983, but it is still an improvement over previous efforts from Lagrange. Dark ruby, with a well-developed bouquet of ripe berry fruit and vanillin oak, the wine is also precocious on the palate, displaying rich, lush, nicely concentrated flavors and full body.

Wine:  St Julien

Wine:  St Julien

2 Fingers

Wine:  Margaux

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

Neck

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

Much like its nearby rival, Haut Brion, the 1990 La Mission has always been relatively evolved, complex, and supple-textured. Even at age 3-4 it performed beautifully. The tannins are sweet, the acidity low, and the high levels of glycerin and concentrated fruit have always been present, and they show no signs of abating. A dark plum/blue/garnet color is followed by a sweet perfume of chocolate, rich, jammy, berry fruit, and hints of smoked herbs as well as meat juices. It remains a full-bodied, opulent, even ostentatious wine that should drink beautifully for two more decades. It really has not changed much over the last 6-7 years.

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

One of the vintage's top wines is the 2006 La Mission-Haut-Brion. From bottle, it reminds me of the 1998, given its structure and backward style. Dense ruby/purple-colored, it possesses a boatload of tannin, but with coaxing, tobacco leaf, sweet black currant, burning ember, and blue fruit characteristics emerge. While thick and full-bodied, the tannins seem more elevated than I remember from barrel. It is going to be a beauty, but like many of the top 2006s, considerable patience is required. Only 55% of the production made it into the grand vin as Jean-Philippe Delmas made a severe selection. The final blend was 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 2006 has one of the highest natural alcohols ever achieved at La Mission, averaging around 14.3%, which is astonishingly high for a Graves. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2035.

Wine:  St Julien

This tastes more like a Pauillac than a St.-Julien with its big, beefy, tannic overlay and aromas and flavors of black currants, asphalt, leather, and damp earth. Tannic, full-bodied but almost impenetrably closed and broodingly backward, this is a long-term prospect for those with patience. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030+.

Wine:  Medoc

An evolved perfume of roasted herbs, black currants, underbrush and forest floor is followed by an attractive, supple-textured, medium-bodied wine with very good fruit and purity. Drink it over the next 5-8 years.

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

Wine:  St Emilion

An ethereal, finesse-styled, Cheval Blanc-like delicacy accompanied by intensity characterize the 2006 l’Arrosee, another terrific effort from new proprietor Roger Caille. A dense ruby/purple color is followed by a sweet perfume of crushed rocks, raspberries, cherries, flowers, and spice. Velvety-textured and structured, with considerable concentration yet a lightness of being, this finesse-styled beauty should be ready to drink in 3-5 years, and last for two decades.

Wine:  St Emilion

The beautiful dark plum/purple-hued 2008 exhibits a sweet perfume of kirsch, roasted herbs, new saddle leather and spice box. Well-textured and medium to full-bodied with supple tannins and abundant nuances, it can be drunk now and over the next 10-15 years.

Wine:  Margaux

Wine:  Margaux 375ml

Wine:  Pauillac

Wine:  Pauillac

Wine:  Pauillac

The 2006 Latour performed even better from bottle than from barrel. Only 38% of the production (10,000 cases) made it into the grand vin, a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot and a small amount of Cabernet Franc. From barrel, I thought it was a modern day version of the 1996 or 1986, and certainly the 1996 comparison still holds. I thought it was somewhat austere from barrel, but that is no longer an issue. This is a beautifully rich Chateau Latour boasting a dense ruby/purple color, a sweet, smoky, charcoal, cassis, graphite, and forest floor-scented nose, full body, an attractive freshness, and sweet, noble tannins. This layered Latour is one of the vintage's top dozen or so wines. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2030.

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

Mid crimson with a fading rim. Nose of only mild intensity came out in the glass with real zest and energy. Neat, rather dusty nose, not immediately obviously of the Haut-Brion stable. Lovely texture. Very rich and voluptuous - especially compared to other 2001s. Lots of tannin but the intensity of fruit covers the tannins well, until the very aftertaste. Quite a bit of acidity. Very neat. Well done! Very plush and velvety.  Opened up in the glass over time. Really zesty.

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

Wine:  St Emilion

A Cheval Blanc look-alike, this cuvee (which includes a high percentage of Cabernet Franc) boasts an ethereal nose of raspberries, menthol, spring flowers, and hints of cedar as well as new oak. Full-bodied, exceptionally fresh, and noble, this is a complex, classic, distinctive wine that should drink well in 3-4 years, and last for two decades. It is the finest Le Dome yet made, but sadly, there are only 1,000 cases.

Wine:  St Julien