Wine Cellar

Wine:  Pauillac

The Blanc de Lynch Bages is a blend of 66% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Semillon and 22% Muscadelle raised in 50% new oak. It has a well-defined bouquet with lime, green apple, chalk dust and a touch of white peach. The palate is well balanced on the entry with the oak nicely assimilated, leading to a poised finish that shows nice weight and persistency.

Wine:  St Julien

A top-notch effort from this estate, the 2011 exhibits an exotic perfume of lead pencil shavings, white chocolate, raspberry jam and red as well as black currants. Loads of fruit, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel and velvety tannin suggest this beauty will drink well for 15+ years. It is one of the stars of the appellation in this vintage. Bravo! NM 88-90, Decanter 16.5, WS 90-93, RPP 91

Wine:  Haut Medoc

Decanter 16/20

Wine:  St Emilion

This terrific sleeper of the vintage displays rich, broad, savory black cherry and black currant fruit intermixed with sandy, loamy soil, licorice and spice box characteristics. Opulent, fleshy, seductive and hedonistic, it has near-term drinking potential, so enjoy it over the next decade.

Wine:  Pauillac

A strong effort from this property situated between Pontet-Canet and Mouton Rothschild, d’Armailhac’s blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and the rest mostly Cabernet Franc and a touch of Petit Verdot was harvested between September 14-24. Its deep ruby color is accompanied by abundant aromas of black fruits, white chocolate, licorice and flowers. Medium-bodied, expressive, savory, pure and long with sweet tannins, it should drink well for 15+ years.

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

Decanter 17, NM 88-90, Suckling 94-95

Wine:  Margaux

Only 57% of the production made it into the 2011 d’Issan, which tips the scales at a lofty 13.2% natural alcohol. A blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon and 31% Merlot, it possesses a dark ruby/purple color as well as a classic Margaux perfume of sweet blueberries, black currants, spring flowers and licorice. Ripe and deep with impressive intensity, it is one of the stars of the 2011 vintage. The wine’s silky tannins, fresh acids and stunning length suggest it will drink well for 15-20 years.

Wine:  Sauternes 375ml

The 2011 Doisy-Vedrines has a far more taciturn bouquet than the Doisy-Daene, offering its trademark tropical, peachy aromas that will hopefully develop more delineation throughout its maturation. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous entry. There are attractive spicy notes and a satisfying build in the mouth towards its botrytis-rich, tropical finish, although on this occasion I find it needing more tension to merit a higher score. Drink 2014-2030. WS 94-97, Decanter 18

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

A blend of 85% Sauvignon Bland and 15% Semillon, the Domaine de Chevalier Blanc has a very taut bouquet with scents of granite, lemon rind and a touch of white peach and chalk dust. Great focus and intensity although it takes time to unwind. The palate is medium-bodied with a lovely elegant white peach and a drop of wild honey, very good acidity and a caressing, vanilla-tinged finish that shows great length. This is better than the red this year. Decanter 18, RPP 94, Suckling 97-98

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

The 2011 is a blend of two-thirds Cabernet and one-third Merlot but Olivier Bernard then mentioned that is includes 6% Petit Verdot. The nose is closed at first but it demonstrates fine precision with blackcurrant, boysenberry, limestone and graphite aromas, again, almost Pauillac like in profile. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins on the entry, crisp acidity: a Domaine de Chevalier struck through with a citric like freshness. A little abrupt and “spiky” on the finish perhaps, but this is a fine, masculine, classic Domaine de Chevalier for mid-term drinking. Decanter 17.5, RP 87-89, RPP 91

Wine:  Sauternes

Wine:  St Emilion

An equal blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon picked from 6th September until the 27th September. It offers the estate’s typical Left Bank, leafy bouquet with touches of pencil lead inflecting the broody dark fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, rigid tannins on the entry. It is a little disjointed but the Cabernet appears to be ripe although the finish is a little austere and needs to develop more expressive Merlot. Maybe it will improve with bottle age? NM 88-90, Decanter 17

Wine:  St Emilion

The de Fonbel is a blend of 63% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 7% Carmenere that is raised in 30% new oak. It has a natural, undergrowth tinged bouquet that unfurls nicely in the glass and develops a lovely, fresh citrus note with aeration, quite floral in fact. The palate is medium-bodied with strict tannins on the entry. It is well balanced, tightly coiled at the moment but I think this will blossom nicely after bottling as it exhibits fine persistency.

Wine:  Canon Fronsac

Gaby’s new consultant, Dr. Alain Raynaud, has brought the best out of this property, fashioning a sleeper of the vintage. An impressive blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, the 2011 Gaby is deep, rich and concentrated. The only other Fronsacs / Canon-Fronsacs with this level of intensity and opulence are La Vieille Cure, Haut Carles and Fontenil. Enjoy this beauty over the next decade.

Wine:  Medoc

RP 87-88 Soft, round, berry fruit, vibrant acidity, and hints of damp earth, black currants and cherries are all present in this elegant, mid-weight wine produced by the owners of Cos d’Estournel. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, it should be consumed over the next 5-7 years

Wine:  Pauillac

The 2011 Grand Puy Lacoste is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot. It has a slight subdued nose that demands some coaxing and eventually, perhaps reluctantly offers aromas of blackberry, wild hedgerow, sous-bois and damp tobacco. I find it missing a little vivacity and precision. The palate has a crisp, brine-tinged entry with chalky tannins. Typically masculine and austere, quite edgy and tense, the 2011 is a straight down the fairway, quintessential Pauillac with cedar and strong graphite notes on the finish. Leaving it for another five minutes, there is a cheeky scent of orange that develops in the glass and then...poof...it’s gone again. This is an intriguing Pauillac that keeps you on your toes. RP 89-91, Decanter 17.5, RPP 90

Wine:  Sauternes 375ml

Ripe and unctuous, but with a deliciously racy orange streak running through the core of creamed pear, fig and green plum flavors. Supercreamy on the finish and very long, with honeysuckle and almond notes echoing on and on. A stunner in the making. Decanter 18/20

Wine:  Pessac Leognan

Like its stablemate La Mission-Haut-Brion, Haut-Brion’s 2011 production was small, only 7,600 cases, which is nearly 3,000 fewer cases than in 2009. A blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc, it is interesting to taste the 2011 Haut-Brion next to the more open-knit, seductive 2011 La Mission Haut-Brion. The former wine is more firm, backward and earthy with a more formidably structured style. Undeniably elegant, distinctive and original, it exhibits notes of mulberries, plums, blueberries and raspberries. Jean-Philippe Delmas told me that in many ways the 2011 reminds him of the 2008 from an aromatic and structural profile. There is plenty of tannin, and the 2011 has 25-30 years of aging potential. It may be more reminiscent of a vintage such as 1988, but it is better made as well as being the product of a far stricter selection process. NM 94-96, Decanter 18.5, WS 93-96, Suckling 94-95

Wine:  St Emilion

This 2,500-case blend from three separate St.-Emilion terroirs is composed of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Copious aromas of graphite, sweet black currant and black cherry fruit intermixed with notions of underbrush, forest floor, camphor and Asian spice emerge from this complex, medium to full-bodied 2011. Loaded with color, fruit and surprisingly silky extract, it should drink well for 10+ years.

Wine:  St Julien

he Chateau Lagrange 2011 is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot (the highest percentage of the latter since 2007.) In 2011, there were just four treatments in the vineyard compared to 12 in 2000. It has a deep purple colour. It has a very pure bouquet with blackberry, cassis, limestone and a touch of Margaux-like violets. It certainly has fine delineation. The palate is pure with silky smooth tannins, fine acidity and an almost Burgundy-like texture. This is a very accomplished Lagrange although I would like to see more personality. It shows good weight on the tensile finish however and is an accomplished Saint Julien. RPP 90

Wine:  St Emilion

The l’Arrossée has a lively, oyster shell nose with copious sweet cassis and blueberry fruit that manages to retain fine delineation. The palate is well balanced with ripe rounded blackberry and raspberry on the entry. This is natural, refined, focused with harmony right towards the sensual finish. Very fine. Tasted April 2012.

Wine:  St Emilion

Proprietor Jonathan Maltus produced 1,000 cases of this phenomenal 2011. A blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot, this backward, slightly unformed St.-Emilion is bursting with exciting potential. An inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by notes of wet steel, lead pencil shavings, Asian spice, spring flowers, blueberries and black raspberries. While the aromatics are suppressed, the flavors explode across the palate with thrilling intensity and purity. This should be a remarkable success story in this vintage, which has been somewhat forgotten as it follows the great years of 2009 and 2010. Give the 2011 5-6 years of cellaring in order to develop more aromatic complexity, and drink it over the following two decades.

Wine:  St Julien

The Leoville Barton has a very elegant bouquet that takes time to unfurl. There are lovely notes of blackberry, dark plum and a touch of graphite. It unfurls beautifully if you lend it five minutes. The palate is very well balanced with fine tannins, good substance, very elegant and refined with a natural, slightly earthy finish that is long in the mouth. Superb persistency – this is one of the top Saint Julien wines. 90-92+, Decanter 17, RPP 91

Wine:  St Julien

Another super effort from this estate, Leoville Poyferre-s 2011 possesses an opaque purple color in addition to a ripe, fragrant nose of black currant fruit, cedar, white chocolate and a touch of oak. Rich, layered and medium to full-bodied with unmistakable elegance and purity, vibrant acids and a fresh, lively personality, it will need 3-4 years of cellaring and should keep for two decades. NM 92-94, Decanter 17.5

Wine:  Lalande de Pomerol

The Cruzelles is a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc picked between the 5th and 12th September and 19th September respectively. It is being aged in 50% new oak. It has a fresh, sorbet-like bouquet with pure mineral-rich dark red fruit that maintains impressive linearity. The palate is medium-bodied with a crisp, charcoal tinged entry. It has very well integrated oak, the finish very clean and precise with that focus and linearity never wavering from start ‘til finish. Very fine, though it will need 3-4 years in bottle.

Wine:  Pauillac

Another strong effort produced under the administration of Jean-Charles Cazes (the son of Jean-Michel Cazes, who spent decades building Lynch Bages into one of the most popular Bordeaux estates), the 2011 boasts an inky/purple hue in addition to copious aromas of black currants, incense, forest floor and ink. Deep, rich, medium to full-bodied and layered with supple tannins as well as the vintage-s freshness and vibrancy, it should age easily for 20 years. WS 92-95

Wine:  Margaux

This dense ruby/purple-colored, opulently-styled 2011 displays terrific fruit intensity, velvety, well-integrated tannins, surprising density and richness as well as decent acidity. Notes of ink, blueberry liqueur and creme de cassis are present in this medium to full-bodied, flamboyant Margaux. It should drink nicely for 15 or more years.

Wine:  Margaux

Administrator Paul Pontallier is nearly embarrassed to explain the amazing success of the 2011 Chateau Margaux, a candidate for wine of the vintage. With the harvest occurring between September 5-20, it was the smallest crop in over twenty years as yields were cut significantly by the drought. The berries were tiny. Moreover, analytically, the 2011 has a higher level of concentration as well as tannins than the 2009. A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, only 38% of the harvest made it into the grand vin. The wine offers an inky/purple color, barely noticeable sweet tannin, and a beautiful nose of creme de cassis, spring flowers and lead pencil shavings backed up by fresh acids and good overall structure. This medium to full-bodied effort possesses tremendous personality and character. It rivals what they achieved in both 2010 and 2009, which is virtually impossible to contemplate given the quality of those two vintages.

Wine:  St Emilion

The Moulin Saint-Georges is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc picked at 35hl/ha and will spend around 18 months in new oak. It has a floral bouquet emanating from the ripe Cabernet Franc, hints of cassis and blackcurrant complemented by subtle crushed stone aromas with aeration. It is well defined and focused, the oak deftly assimilated into the wine. The palate is medium-bodied with a lovely opening of vibrant, red berry fruit with hints of truffle and dried meats. It is very well balanced with svelte tannins and substance from start to finish. This is a supremely accomplished Saint Emilion from Alain Vauthier: feminine and...nubile. RPP 92, RP 88-90

Wine:  Pauillac

Decanter 19, NM 92-94, WS 93-96

Wine:  St Estephe

The 2011 Les Pagodes de Cos is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. It has a lifted, floral bouquet with ripe Merlot filling in the gaps of the Cabernet nicely. The palate is oaky on the entry with a touch of vanilla inflecting the ripe black fruit with hints of espresso towards the tannic but well-balanced finish. This is commendable for the vintage.

Wine:  St Emilion

Another terrific success for the flagship estate (a 92-acre vineyard situated on the famed limestone and clay-rich slopes of Cote Pavie) of Chantal and Gerard Perse, the 2011 Pavie is composed of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The harvest took place between September 20-30, with final yields of a mere 28 hectoliters per hectare. The natural alcohol is 14.3%, and the 2011 may be the biggest, richest, most massive wine of the vintage. With thrilling levels of concentration, tremendous purity, high but sweet tannin, a skyscraper-like mouthfeel, and terrific intensity, depth and palate presence, this larger-than-life effort will require 5-8 years of cellaring, and should age effortlessly over the following 25-30 years. NM 92-94+, Decanter 17.5, WS 92-95

Wine:  Pomerol

The 2011 Petrus has a very refined, perhaps slightly introverted bouquet with extraordinary purity. It has quite amazing precision and lifted with black cherries, raspberry and a touch of vanilla. It is very intense, perhaps more like 2009 at this stage than 2010. The palate is medium-bodied with a powerful entry. There is a touch of spice on the entry and very intense fruit. The tannins are tensile, lending this Petrus edginess and minerality. This has -classic- Petrus written all over it. It is not quite up there with the 2009 or 2010, but it-s not far off. Tasted April 2012. RP 90-93,

Wine:  Pauillac

A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Merlot picked from 12th September until 28th or something (according to a vague Mr. Seely.) It sports a ripe, more extrovert nose than some of its neighbours, with lush blackberry, boysenberry, a touch of cherry liqueur and underneath, typical Pauillac traits of graphite and tobacco. Leaving the glass for five minutes it unwinds nicely and shows great purity. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins on the entry, good grip and weight, a 2011 with real substance and chutzpah. The more I leave this in my glass, the more I like it. Very harmonious with layers of ripe blackberry and a touch of white pepper, the finish forgetting it is 2011 and not 2009. This is an outstanding Pichon Baron for the vintage. Tasted three times with consistent notes Decanter 17.5, RP 90-92, RPP 93

Wine:  Pauillac

The headline is that this vintage of Pichon Lalande has the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon ever: 78% accompanied by 8% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. It is aged in 60% new oak and has an IPT of 75. It has a very strict bouquet, obviously dominated by the Cabernet with notes of blackcurrant, tobacco, graphite, a hint of Christmas cake and that tincture of blood orange evident in the second wine. The palate is medium-bodied with a linear, conservative entry that expands nicely in the mouth. It has fine acidity, good tension, fine weight but it is very tightly wound, more so than usual at this nascent stage. Leaving it aside, there is a hint of Lapsong Souchang and graphite towards the finish that shows a little hardness, but that should soften by the time of bottling. A very Pauillac-like Pichon, perhaps the little brother of the 1996? Tasted twice with consistent notes. NM 91-94, Decanter 17.5

Wine:  Pauillac

Once again proprietor Alfred Tesseron has produced a wine of first-growth potential. One of the superstars of the vintage, Pontet-Canet’s 2011 exhibits an opaque purple color and a glorious bouquet of incense, subtle toast and copious quantities of creme de cassis. There is a floral underpinning, decent acidity and ripe tannin to this full-bodied effort. Big, rich, round and generously endowed, it should drink well for 20-25+ years.

Wine:  St Emilion

From the Cheval Blanc winemaking team. Bright and elegant. Shows class. Super fine, sweet delicate fruit. Precise and spicey RPP 92. Somewhat 2008-ish in style with high acidity, medium body and a vibrant, berry fruitiness, the dark ruby/purple-colored 2011 is fragrant and attractive, but it would benefit from more flesh and substance on the mid-palate. It should keep for a decade. RP 87-89

Wine:  Sauternes 375ml

Decanter 18.5, WS 94-97

Wine:  Pomerol

Tasted en primeur at the Pomerol Syndicate. Catherine Moueix, now joined by her daughter at the estate, has fashioned a pretty 2011 that yells: “Drink me”. It has a very refined bouquet with pure raspberry and wild strawberry aromas with a hint of truffle underneath. There is precision and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with a very fresh, animated entry. It has crisp acidity, pure fruit and a very refined, minerally finish that is adorable. Just shows you do not have to be on the central plateau to make great Pomerol. Tasted April 2012.

Wine:  Pomerol

Tasted en primeur at the Pomerol Syndicate. The Tour Maillet has a well defined, elegant bouquet with vibrant dark berry fruit with floral aromas developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine balanced, crisp tannins, natural red fruit with a very composed finish that is utterly delicious. Superb! Tasted April 2012.

Wine:  St Emilion

The 2011 boasts a black/purple hue (like many of Jonathan Maltus’s wines in 2011), terrific intensity, a skyscraper-like mouthfeel, and multidimensional flavors of creme de cassis, kirsch, licorice, toast, chocolate and spicy oak. It is a big, dense, thick, full-bodied St.-Emilion that is nearly atypical for the vintage. No doubt the old vines and tiny yields had a significant influence on the formation of this wine. Give it 5-6 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 25+. From a vineyard planted in 1947 on clay and limestone soils, this 1,500-case blend of two-thirds Merlot and one-third Cabernet Franc is a blockbuster for the vintage. It was harvested between September 26 and October 3.