What we have been drinking...
De Morgenzon Chenin Blanc Reserve 2007 R171
A monumental chenin and worthy SA ambassador; light gold, deep lemon colour, good viscosity - almost oily in its appearance, somewhat muted honeyed & honeysuckle notes on the nose but a delicious finely-tuned, full-flavoured & richly layered palate with a core of steely acidity, huge mouth appeal and length and, so crucial, in spite of its 'bigness' this is most refreshing and should age gracefully for another 5 years at least.
David 18/20 February
Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2009 - R295
Another great southern Rhone from this producer in the NW corner of the appellation: deep sparkling red colour and an explosive nose of red fruits and provencal herbs, medium to full-bodied, richly endowed & layered with abundant fruit yet still remarkably nimble across the palate (with 70% Granache) and a long lingering grippy tail, clearly another decade ahead but still most enjoyable with a good steak while still a juvenile
David 17½/20 February
Alain Jaume Gigondas 'Terrasses de Montmirail' 2009 - R195
Good but a shadow of the DGV Chateauneuf 2009 drunk last night, deep dark sparkling red, red fruit nose and a fullish succulent palate with a longish grippy finish, not much else to say really.
David 15½/20 February
Sierra Cantabria Amancio 2004, Rioja – (2007 – R595)
Another Spanish giant! Big intense & concentrated, it is dark & dense, an array of different scents and a whole smorgasbord of flavours, impressive structure, taut and very long with fine tannins (and really no evidence of the reported 200% new oak treatment), this is a tremendous wine that will surely improve enormously over another 5 to 10 years. Was a magic partner with a rare braaied rack of Overberg lamb.
David 18.5/20 December 2011
Joseph Drouhin Chambolle Musigny 2005, Burgundy – R495
Wow, no stopping the 2005 Red Burgundies; this is THE best vintage I have tasted in its youth. And this village Chambolle punches above its weight, with incredible riches and depth. It took a few hours open up into almost black fruits, hint of undergrowth with a crystalline cranberry tang. Really structured tannins and massive concentration should give this the ability to age another decade or more.
Roland 17.5/20 December 2011
Trimbach Riesling Reserve 2009, Alsace – R165
After the extremely tight and steely 2008 that needs another 5-8 years before attacking, the 2009 is immediate pleasure! 2009 was a warmer vintage with lower acidity, more roundness and maturity. The nose is uber-tropical but ends in a coil of acidity and tightness. A honey edge fades slowly in the distance.
Roland 16/20 December 2011
Trimbach Riesling 2009, Alsace – R125
Packed with tropical fruit, touch of wet earth and a round acidity, this is a delicious drink that is ready and complex. The warmer 2009 shows its energy with edges of turpene notes already at the fore.
Roland 15.5/20 December 2011
Trimbach Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 2005, Alsace – R395
The previous vintage (2004) was tighter and more chiseled; the 2005 shows more maturity and complexity in its youth, being a warmer vintage. This is very much like the Reserve, only more concentrated and rich with a swirl of creamy honey notes, pineapple and flint. A profound wine.
Roland 17/20 December 2011
Le Mesnil Cuvee Sublime 2002, Champagne – R515
This is the top cuvee of Le Mesnil and it is only made in great vintages. 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay from Le Mesnil sur Oger of course. What sets it apart from the standard vintage is that it doesn’t go through malolactic fermentation and has a slightly lower sweetness. This makes it steely, dry and very well structured, suggesting it needs more time to fully develop. Very elegant with white pear, floral notes and wet pebbles. Very sophisticated!
Roland 18/20 December 2011
Domaine Jacques Prieur Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes 2009, Burgundy – R700
The whites of DJP show more ripeness and new oak than the reds which have become more elegant and finer over the last decade. The Les Combettes is full-throttle, rich and complex, but shows lots of maturity and less acidity than expected. A hedonist wine.
Roland 16/20 December 2011
Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage La Guiraude 2004, Rhone (2009 Sold Out)
This is the top cuvee of Graillot from selected parcels and barrels. It is usually richer, rounder and more structured than the standard Crozes. 2004 was a tricky vintage, but this wine is beautiful with savoury, bloody meat, black pepper and floral notes. Mature, compelling and complex, making for delicious drinking!
Roland 18/20 December 2011
Lafaurie Paraguey 1989, Sauternes - NA
This is a golden yellow from a warm, dry vintage. Completely mature, composed and balanced although not extremely highly rated, it provided immense pleasure. Fat, yet refreshing with delicate apricot, honey and lime notes. Textured, rich and
Roland 17/20 December 2011
Mullineaux Kloof Street Red 2009, Swartland – R72
This starts of slightly reduced, but opened well on the second day. The mourvedre shows more initially with wild berry and smokey notes, whilst the syrah peaks through and then dominates with wild meaty and floral notes. Great value.
Roland 15/20 December 2011
Ouwingerdreeks 2010
The Ouwingerdreeks now sold separately are truly some of the most exciting wines in the country, they symbolize and transcend 'die waare Jacop' (the real Mcoy) of old vines . 6 wines They are of old un- irrigated bush vines, mostly growing ungrafted on their own roots, with no recourse to chemical fertiliser or herbicide. The wines have been made (in tiny quantities) with great simplicity, much as a few centuries ago –although with modern understanding
Skurfberg 2010, Clanwilliam - R171
a blend of three different parcels of Chenin Blanc planted in 1947 from Clanwilliam, on iron rich table mountain sandstone. The nose is timid with subtle tones of white flowers and yellow fruit, prickly pear, hard candy and a slither of pineapple with faint reduction. Entry bulges with an elastic snap back in, nose follows through with irony, yellow straw. It has a tight grid like structure, and quiet tactile to the finish. The wine is softly spoken yet strongly felt.Tessa December 2011
Kokerboom 2010, Olifants River - R208
white and red sémillon (70/30) planted in 1924, It starts with green fizzer and candyfloss, and then goes savoury with stringy celery, fresh pine needles, green fruit, kiwi fruit and something metallic. It enters richly with a sharp edge. There is lemon meringue with freshly squeezed lime finished with a red apple cherry touch sort of sweet and sour. The tanins are fine dry and bordering on dusty, with the acidity shaving your tongue ready for more. Tessa December 2011
“T Voetpad 2010, Swartland - R208
a blend of red and white sémillon, palomino and chenin blanc, planted between 1900 and 1928, This wine has a complex richness and smells exactly like my mother’s Christmas trifle. There are pecan nuts, tinned pineapple, whipped cream boudoir biscuits cherries and banana sweets, with white flowers hovering on top. Flavours come through in waves; it is still tightly bound and needs time to open up. The finish is bright like orange emeralds. Tessa December 2011
Mrs Kirsten’s 2010 Stellenbosch - R667
A single vineyard chenin blanc planted in the 1920’s on decomposed granite, only 300 bottles made.It smells of lemon meringue, raw wool, fern tree and a light meat like cold roast beef. There is steel wool too, with cold caramel and Wheatfield’s. Its entry has a fluffy feel; nose follows through with flavours concentrating and intensifying on mid palate, than seeps through on the finish, the acidity is like al dente strawberries. And I really want to drink it with Sunday roast.Tessa December 2011
Pofadder 2010, Swartland - R186
100% cinsaut planted in 1967.Beetroot, beetroot, beetroot, black earth, red fruit, cherry cola black jacks and pepper coming first. There are undertones of hard candy and blue ink. It enters sleek like cranberry juice and fresh lime, a fine solid thread of structure networks through with a clean finish, there are pure bursts of crunchy red and purple fruit. With red apple and damp black soil on the finish. Tannins are fine and tight with dusty finish, balanced by rip tide of salivation. Its juicy yet dry. Solid yet light. Generous yet fine.Tessa December 2011
Eselshoek 2010, Swartland – R482
100% muscat d’Alexandrie planted in 1887. Apricots and sweet rooibos tee mixed with extra matured cheddar cheese out of tin with almonds and some sweet gammon. Entry is silky and slippery, the structure rises and dries, acidity refreshes and cleans. Palate becomes more savoury from nose there is a mineral swirl of pebbles on the mid palate of feel and taste with flambéed orange on finish. Its ultra decadent. Tessa December 2011
Beaumont Hope Marguerite Vertical
This comes from two Chenin Blanc blocks planted in 1978 (on shale with clay) and 1974(on clay with alluvial soil). Unirrigated bush vines. Natural yeast fermentation (taking anything from 3 to 10 months) in 400l French (very little new), freshness is retained with no malolactic fermentation, it has a sterile filtration before bottling. It averages 7000L +/-. 500 to 600 cases per year. This is a STG (soil to glass) wine. With the current vintage 2010 selling for R140 …it’s a no brainer.
Beaumont Hope Marguerite, Botriver 2004
Toasted brioche and yellow fruit. Silky smooth with a light prickle of oak, touch of bottle age character (waxy, honey comb..can’t put my finger on it) adding complexity. The palate is weightier then the rest, entry is reserved then hits you with yellow fruit and savory bran (like the vintage slow ripening then bam a heat wave) Tessa November 2011
Beaumont Hope Marguerite, Botriver 2005
Floral, white peaches, yellow peach skin most delicate and feminine. Lush and light at the same time Nose follows through with added orange citrus tones…lingering through to the end. full of finesse and ease. Tessa November 2011
Beaumont Hope Marguerite, Botriver 2007
Lime cordial, peach pipe and a green component like subtle asparagus, mintiness,, with caramel edge. Entry is rich with higher sugar level evident, adding weight and wealth. The opulent ripe orange and lime fruit bulge with fresh elasticity on the palate. The finish to is rich. A wine for a regal food pairing. With many years ahead. Tessa November 2011
Beaumont Hope Marguerite, Botriver 2008
A touch reductive, steel wool zinc and caramel custard, opens up with more masculine structure, not as silky, just as weightless. Ripe Kumquats on the palate, the flesh and the skin..layered texture. A touch of wild spice, has an intensity and richness on finish a collective umami from the start. Tessa November 2011
Beaumont Hope Marguerite, Botriver 2009
Floral white lilies, dried guava roll, a touch of vanilla spice, lime cordial with evidence of unbalanced alcohol. Its entry is a bit brash and disorganized. It has all the components that make up the beauty of Hope Marguerite yet they still need synergy, confirmed by the separation of the oak fruit and alcohol on finish. A delicious wine none the less. Needs a little more time. Tessa November 2011
Beaumont Hope Marguerite, Botriver 2010 - R140
Without a doubt the wine of the flight (2005 second). Yellow and white flowers, steel wool, light butterscotch, with lemon zest, still a little shy. It enters like silky ribbons, with effortless viscosity and ease, filled with fresh bright yellow and orange fruit . It’s a synonym for elegance and femininity. The finish has a savory linger of something beige...I can’t wait to drink this wine in 2 to 5 years. Tessa November 2011
Sadie Family Columella 2009 – R602
Tasted blind this really stood in the old world with maybe a slight lean into the New. Fine, lifted black fruits with a toasted cashew and bacon fat nose. The palate is fine and floral with a seamless, delicate and yet weighty palate. Super long, with a backward stance. Definately one of the best reds in SA. Not a real surprise when unveiled. Mostly Syrah with dollops of our Mediterranean varieties. This needs another 5-8 years to show it’s full. Drink 2016-2022
Roland 18.5/20 November 2011
Domaine Grand Veneur Lirac Clos de Sixte, Southern Rhone 2009 – R160
Wow, this is an atomic explosion on the nose and palate. It’s massive! Herbs, liquorice, baked plums and spice. Full bodied with an intense mid-palate with rich fruity tannin (not oak!) thats almost like a punch in the neck. Time will calm them I am sure. Don’t let the 15% alc scare you off, that’s what great vintage Southern Rhône’s are about. 50% Grenache with Syrah and Mourvedre. Great value. Drink now to 2020
Roland 17.5/20 November 2011
Gaja Sperss Langhe, Italy 2006 – R1600
Not one of Gaja’s famed single vineyards which are located in Barberseco, this is in Barolo and for my money is just as good. The dash of Barbera (for fruit and acidity) negates a Barolo labelling. The nose is a galaxy of flavours… cured meat, flowers, blueberries, chocolate, spice and leather. Intense, yet soo elegant and engaging. The tannins on the back-palate are massive but checked, finally bringing the journey to flavour to an end 3 or 4 minutes after your sip. Decanted for 4 hours, it’s still as tight as a nun’s a**! An awesome wine. Drink 2016-2035
Roland 19/20 November 2011
Etienne Pochon, Chateau Curson, Crozes Hermitage 1999 (2009 - R235)
Lovely mature elegant Syrah, nicely-weighted & perfumed with a perfect balance of fruit, tannin & acidity - this is text-book Syrah - with a long lingering peppery finish, so easy to drink the second half of the bottle! 17½ shows what a great vintage can do to a fairly humble appellation
David 17.5/20 October 2011
Terre Nere Pre-Phylloxera 2008, Sicily, Italy – R570 (sold out)
Made from 140 year old Nerello Mascalese from high up on the northern slopes of Mount Etna. Only 3500 precious bottles are produced each year and it sells out very quickly. It has the vivid delicacy and aromatics of Musigny along with the power, weight and tannin of a top end Barolo. The concentration of fruit is astounding, showing just what old vines can really achieve. Tough to appreciate when it’s so young, the tannins did melt away with food however and it started singing with rare meat. It should be best in 10 years and should last for 20, if not more. This received 95/100 from the Wine Advocate, and there are fewer wines at the moment that make me as excited!
Roland 19/20 October 2011
Bouchard Finlayson Kaaimansgat Chardonnay 1997 – R169
Wow! A 14 year old Chardonnay that is in better shape than most SA Cabernets at this age! 1997 was a terrific vintage for Bouchard, but this wine has aged beautifully; with a bright colour, no browning and no signs of oxidation. It is fully integrated, confident, rich and complex. The savoury notes and purity remind me of Corton Charlemagne, especially with a gun-flint note on the nose and finish. Not much fruit left, but there is ample joy, making it a complete bargain!
Roland 18/20 October 2011
La Tour Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan 2003 - R675
2003 was of course extremely warm in Bordeaux and all of Europe. Many wines are over-ripe, lacking freshness and over mature already. But those from the top sites in the Medoc and Graves (St Estephe especially, with a thick layer of water-retaining clay) and made terrific wines. Haut Brion 2003 and Montrose 2003 are legendary wines. And the Latour Haut Brion is terrific too. Neither over-ripe nor heavy, it has plenty life, with sweet fruit balancing the savoury, dry tannins. Rich, rewarding and ready.
Roland 16.5/10 October 2011
Tokara Chardonnay Reserve Walker Bay 2009 – R115
The recent Neal Martin 94/100 rating tempted me into comparing this to their Stellenbosch version. And its oh-so elegant and delicious. The poise and style reminds me of the minerality and chalky/limeyness of the Hamilton Russell, except with a bit more oak and perhaps somewhat less finesse. Well structured, elegant and fine with a long limey finish. It is unbelievable for the price and must for any Chardonnay lover. Drink 2012 to 2018. Tokara seems to finally have reached the top end of the SA wine industry with brilliant wines across the board.
Roland 18/20 October 2011
Tokara Chardonnay Reserve Stellenbosch 2009 - R115
This a riper, more showy wine with richer citrus, baked apples and more spice. The nose shows less new oak but the palate’s texture has a grainy, oaky edge. The alcohol is also slightly protruding on the finish, coming in at 14.5%. Stylistically different to the Walker bay wine, but with similar ageability and pleasure.
Roland 16.5/20 October 2011
Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2000 (2008 - R403)
Unmistakably Paul Sauer with its typical cassis, tea-leaf and smoke notes. Quite chunky, rich and fat, the finish is a little abrupt, diffuse and chunky. Mature and delicious. It will not compete with a 1998 or 1995, but still offers lots of enjoyment.
Roland 16.5/20 September 2011
Chapoutier Hermitage Chante Alouette Blanc 2007 – R395
Made from 100% Marsanne from a small vineyard at the base of Hermitage hill. Hermitage blanc is an oddity; it is drinkable in youth with exotic fruits, opulence and power and then hits a plateau for years where it changes very little. Top vintages can last many decades. The fruit slow fades and it becomes a more texture-drive wine with secondary, earthy and honey flavours. This has mango, peach and pineapple fruit along with a kaleidoscope of savoury notes, leading to an almost salty finish. It’s fresh, but very low in acid, giving a long, really enjoyable finish. Drink now to 2025.
Roland 18/20 September
Chateau Rayne Vigneau, Sauternes 2005 – R195 / 375ml
This is textbook Sauternes where the richness of botrytis balances the full flavour sweetness. Honey, wax and a hint of jasmine follow to a light yet textured palate. Great value.
Roland 17/20 September
Chateau Climens, Barsac 1998 (2008 375ml R450 En-primeur)
A Barsac can be referred to a Sauternes as it lies within its boarders, but not visa versa of course. They are generally lighter in colour, leaner and Semillon plays a more dominant role over Sauvignon Blanc. The 1998 Climens is quite atypical however; there is a thick texture and overt sweetness. More bold and fruity, moderate length finish, but still extremely classy and delicious. .
Roland 17/20 September
Quoin Rock, Occulus 2007 – R96
This is a stunning wine, quite sensual & compelling and a knock-out food partner. Bright pale gold, the 15% Viognier dominates the nose (in a nice way), the palate is just so clean, linear & focussed, quite fat and very very long - delicious, deserves an 18
Note Neil Martins review: 93 The outstanding 2007 Oculus is a blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Viognier, lees aged in oak over 12 months. It sports a very engaging, aromatic nose of white peach, pear skin with a hint of passion fruit, and perhaps more Viognier than Sauvignon. The palate is full in the mouth with a vibrant spicy entry of melon, apricot and orange peel, very good acidity and superb concentration on the honeyed finish. Drink now-2014.
David 18/20 September
Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2001 NA
Real class, deep sparkling red, aromas of provencal herbs & grilled meat, big intense complex mouth-filling flavours, an attractive slight sweet edge, very long with fine tight tannins, a very fine ½-btl drinking beautifully now –
David 18½+/20 September
Creation Syrah-Grenache 2008 - (2009 – R136)
Open 27 hours, exceeds expectations, deep dark colour, fresh loganberrys on the nose and a lovely fresh lifted palate full of red fruits & berries, goodish length, this is delicious.
David 17+/20 September
Sequillo Red 2006 – R144
Open 27 hours & much better than after opening, deep dark red, closed nose but expressive northern Rhone style shiraz on the palate, tight grip, bit short, drink soon.
David 16-/20 September
Thelema Rabelais Stellenbosch 2007 – R358
Initial vegetal nose, shoe polish, aroma comes through slowly richly and uniformed, iodine, sea salt earth, raw meat, ink, blue berries and licorice. (Complex? I think so!!) It has a smooth seamless entry, a touch tart on the finish giving it bounce , age-worthy with flavours encapsulated. Has a dry tea leaf finish. Tessa September 2011
Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch 2008 – R195
Earthy, truffled mushroom nose, classic aromas of lead pencil and cassis, clove spice and cedar wood. Very soft for a Cabernet Sauvignon, elegant and delicate tannin, flavor comes through layered, a savoury spice on the finish. This Cabernet is Understated and my best from the Thelema portfolio. Tessa September 2011
Thelema Merlot Reserve Stellenbosch 2009 – R247 -VERY LIMITED
Black Jacks and cranberries, fresh raw beef and eucalyptus (perm lotion?) a lot of flavor wrapped up in youthful tension. Clean pure fruit slips gently and elegantly over your palate with great freshness. Lean tight tannin. Dry and beautiful. Tessa September 2011
Thelema Merlot Stellenbosch 2008 – R130 -VERY LIMITED
Tomato bush and savory umami flavor , cold Italian sausage and hard candy a speck of liquorices. Palate is delicate and soft with pure fruit structured by fine tannin. Tessa September 2011
Thelema Shiraz Stellenbosch 2008 – R117
Cool black spice and hot well done steak, white and black pepper, braai smoke and sage with ripe fruit. Enters lean with fine tannin, with fruit bulging round. Nose follows through with alcohol apparent on the finish. Tessa September 2011
Thelema Mountain Red Stellenbosch 2008 - R61
Dense and plumy ,with warm red berry pie and smoke mixed with savoury herbs. Entry is rich with textured tannins medium weight with gentle oaking sticky yet fresh with a sour touch on the finish.Something for every day. Tessa September 2011
Mullineux Family Wines Syrah 2009 - R195
This wine is just too young to full appreciate and it’s almost tighter than the plush Northern Rhone 2009s that are just being released. White pepper and brambleberry on the nose, the palate is extremely fine, layered and floral. No hint of oak and moderate alcohol (13%). This is a real wine with a long life ahead…
Roland 18/20 September
Lanzerac Pinotage 1969 - NA
From a 375ml bottle with perfect ullage, the wine was in brilliant shape with no browning and a deep red sheen. Almost gooey-liked fruits jumped from the glass, along with a spice and a savoury edge. Well balanced, deeply complex, with the tannins melting away on the finish. This will compete with any great wine from around the world, but its not quite as terrific as the Zonnebloem 1974 Pinotage that I have drank on many occasions.
Roland 18.5/20 August
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2003 - R355 (2010 R277)
I have compared HRV to Burgundy on many occasions and this wasn’t the first time it trumped a Grand Cru. Often confused with Burgundy, there isn’t another SA Chardonnay that offers this mineral, limey texture and poise. And it’s not done yet; the 2003, 2001 and 2009 are wines that will age 20 years. A complete bargain when compared with great whites from around the world.
Roland 18/20 August
Emilio Lustau VORS Oloroso Sherry NV - R525
This is a 30 year old Solera flagship Sherry of the fine house of Lustau. Its hauntingly deep with so many flavours of nuts, rum, orange rind, flowers, cured meat and spice. The fine acidity balances amazing richness and length.
Roland 19/20 August
De Morgenzon Chenin Blanc Reserve 2009
One of the best chenins I have tasted this year; a completely composed balance of new world opulence along with the depth and texture of a Loire Chenin. The nose shows ripe mango, peach and honey with hints of botrytis, but it’s the palate where it comes alive. So unctuous but mineral, elegant and long with an explosive finish and savoury edge. Open for 4 days it really started singing, suggesting it will age well for up to a decade. Another spectacular 2009…
Roland 18/20 August
Spier Creative Block 3, coastal region 2008 - R103
got a Veritas Double Gold October 2010 but lesser gongs (mostly silvers) at subsequent shows, 94% Shiraz dominant with 4% mourvedre & 2% viognier, this is soft - too much so in my view - accessible & juicy, lovely colour & legs, spicy and plummy, good mouth weight and layers of flavours - maybe puppy fat, nice to drink on its own but short and dosen't have the backbone to be an effective food partner now, going to leave this alone for a couple of years to see how it evolves - 16- David August 2011
Spier Creative Block 5, coastal region, 2007 - R103
Bordeaux blend, Bordeaux blend - 2007: now this is very good and deserving of the Veritas Double Gold October 2010, extremely dark colour, almost a black core, complex nose of dark fruits and olives and a rich ripe full palate with top class fine tannins, very long , the only downside perhaps is the 14.5% alcohol but it dosen't show, should age well, wait until 2014 - 17+ David August 2011
Domaine Jamet, Cote Rotie 1990 - 2007
http://www.winecellar.co.za/Jamet/
Chateau Haut-Batailley, Pauillac 1996 (2008 R266.95 en-primeur)
lovely quintessential Left Bank Cabernet Sauvignon dominated claret from an excellent vintage, dark sparkling colour, and a prominent classic cigar-box nose, medium-bodied elegant beauty with a sweetish mid-palate a long grippy finish, this is ready but should hold on this plateau of maturity for another decade -
David 18- August 2011
Chateau Le Crock, St Estephe 2003 - (2010 R190 en-primeur)
Wow, St Estephe on steroids! A big plump ripe rich Bordeaux from the hot vintage but close the the river so the roots were cool and damp - and it shows - very dark colour, sweet ripe red fruit on the nose and a medium to full bodied fat mouth-coating palate and big gorgeous ripe crumbly tannins, a most pleasing food wine with a long way to go -
David 17½ - August 2011
Chateau Poujeaux, Moulis 2004 - R335
Moulis is part of the greater Medoc, parallel with Margaux but further from the river. And Poujeaux along with Chasse Spleen are the top producers. This is excellent, typical ‘claret’ made in a medium bodied style from a classical vintage. It took a few hours to open up and then showed wonderful character and richness. Moderately intense, quite classy and long on the finish. Drink now to 2020.
Roland 16.5/20 August 2011
Willi Schaefer Qba Riesling, Mosel 2008 - R128
As good, if not better than a Kabinett from a lesser producer! It’s starting to gain nice weight and hint of terpene complexity whilst keeping light and delicate. A prefect match with a creamy veg marsala curry; the acid cutting through the cream and residual sugar combating the heat. A real bargain drink and at 9% alc, its difficult to have only 1 bottle open…
Roland 16.5/20 August 2011
Vriesenhof Pinotage 2006
Not one to drink much Pinotage, this is a beautiful wine that shows more of the old world, and none of the bitterness or overt banana notes often associated. Light in colour and body with a wonderful savoury gamey tone on the nose and palate, mixed with strawberries and spice. The tannins are dry and assertive, well-coated with fruit for a few years of further maturation.
Roland 17/20 August 2011
Silvio Nardi Turan, Saint Antimo DOC 2009, Tuscany - R95
Delightful and charactered Italian blend of Syrah, Petit Verdot and Sangiovese from the new DOC of Saint Antimo around Montalcino. We sold buckets of the 2006 which was more tannic and backward, the 2009 is slightly more polished and supple. There is fantastic depth at this price level, but all the components are not quite integrated so it will be best 2012 to 2015
Roland 15.5 August 2011
Gaja, Sito Moresco, Langhe DOC, Piedmont 2009 - R270
A blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Merlot this “baby Gaja” is holds plenty muster and definition. Medium bodied, with excellent purity, perfume and class. It drinks like a polished Barolo with more lush fruit and softer tannins. Long, savoury finish.
Roland 17/20 August 2011
Marco Marengo Barolo 2004 (approx R350, 2006 arriving soon)
The most delicious wine I have had for a while and I can’t think of a better wine to pair with lamb and waterblommetiie breedie. Light in colour and in body but serious in bouquet, fruit concentration and rich tannin. The nose dazzles with cranberry, strawberry, dried herbs and pot pourri. Juicy, poised, long and quintessentially great vintage Barolo. It will take another 5-10 years to hit maturity and then drink for a long time further…
Roland 18/20 August 2011
Sadie Family Columella, Swartland 2003 (N/A, 2009 R602)
A rich ripe and emphatic wine that stands apart from most South African wines made around this time, especially with eight years of age. Ample spice, mixed berries and an overt but not off-putting savoury, meaty complexity. Big, almost thickly textured with a long, crunchy finish. Very rewarding and classy. Drink now, but it should last a few years.
Roland 17.5/29 July 2011
Creation Pinot Noir, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge 2010
Light coloured, translucent. Beautiful aromatics, floral and pure cranberry-fruited. The amount of new oak and sweetness in this wine has certainly decreased over the last few years. Delightfully light-bodied and drinkable with a savoury finish which is just a touch hard (perhaps showing some alcohol burn). Otherwise fantastic!
Roland 16/20 July 2011
Chamonix Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, Franshhoek 2009
This wine fits into the same mold as the Quoin Rock Nicobar and Reyneke Reserve White where the riper spectrum of Sauvignon Blanc is displayed rather than the green often off-putting earthy spectrum. Cassis, kiwi fruit and winter melon on the nose and palate. It is rather rich and full with an exotic appeal and textured complexity. The oak supports and should integrate fully with age. With the perfectly balanced freshness, I would believe this will age well for a decade. I enjoyed a 1999 recently which was absolutely fabulous…
17/20 July 2010
Daniel Dampt Chablis 2008 - R160
2008 was a terrific Chablis vintage that showed exceptional minerality and balance in contrast to riper more diffuse vintages such as 2005 or 2006. This is wonderfully oyster-shell like, with notes of honey and beeswax on the finish. Piercing but balanced, exceptional with food and deliciously succulent. Long and rewarding, It will age well for another few years, but it is more impressive than the premier crus now.
Roland 17/20 July 2011
Yquem, Sauternes 1998, 375ml R1350
A bargain Yquem! Not a huge botrytis year, but Yquem is great every year and this wine is as good as far more pricey vintages. It is still light straw in colour with primary blossom and lemony notes. Fine and elegant yet unctuous and juicy, the finish feels expensive like only Yquem can do. Balanced and integrated, it drinks well now but will develop another decade or two.
Roland 18.5/20 July 2011
Ygrec ‘Y’, Bordeaux Blanc 2007 R1095
The dry wine of Yquem is made in tiny volumes and is made under the Bordeaux Blanc AOC as Sauternes is only allowed to make sweet wines. Tasted next to Yquem it shows a similar attractive nose of honey and lemon, with just a faint cassis note. The palate is fruity but quite lean, with less oak and more subtlety than a typical white from Graves. 2007 was a brilliant white Bordeaux vintage and it this shows brightness and brilliance. Slightly brooding and simple now, it will require more time to show its best.
Roland 17/20 July 2011
Testalong El Bandito Cortez, Swartland 2009 - R178
flinty wet wool metallic, oxidative rancid touch, custard granite wheatyness…..it has a big entry the flavours are suspended like vapour and come through bright and yellow like yellow pears, it has an unbelievable mineral acid tension, the mouth feel is like friendly barbwire.Tessa July 2011
Testalonga El Bandito, Swartland 2009 - R178
The Bandito –has a similar nose with subtle differences , steel wool, honey coulmb rancidity, brandy barrel as well as custard touch, the flavors are dense, wine clearly in need of decanting, tightly wrapped yellow and beige flavors very tactile wine, bendy with an underlying cream and richness. Its knit like bread double baked sourdough bread. The finish has an oilynes coming through, A wine to feel not too taste, you need to eat to bring out the flavors.Tessa July 2011
Rijk's Private Cellar Pinotage, Tulbach 2007 – R 140
confirming it's exalted status, this is a serious accomplished & well-groomed wine with polish & panache - and it should be having won the Pinotage Trophy at the recent Trophy Show with an average score of 95! Deep dark sparkling red, a diffused dark fruit nose but this performs in the mouth, medium to full-bodied, it gives plenty of rich layered dark fruit to coat the palate and a satisfyingly long brisk tail with loads of acid for long keeping - and not a hint of Pinotage, what is that now with these recent wines? - a worthy South African ambassador indeed - 17½ David July 2011
Testalonga Cortez, Swartland 2009 (by Craig Hawkins) – R178
R178 this is a stylish Chenin Blanc with full flavours and a big rich creamy textured palate but with lovely lift and freshness and a long finish, bright shiny yellow-gold colour and nice honeyed nose, most impressive wine - 16½ David July 2011
Testalonga El Bandito Swartland 2009 (by Craig Hawkins) – R178
a bigger 'earthy' more 'underslung' Chenin Blanc than the Cortez that begs for food, not as much lift & freshness as the Cortez but it has deep serious gutsy flavours, darker in colour, more of a 'wet wool' nose and loads of texture intensity & weight - 16 David July 2011
Eric de Suremain, Monthelie 1er Cru Sur la Velle 1999
this is really very good for poor man's Burgundy (can be disappointing), sparkling bright red, inviting red fruits on the nose and a nice tense defined palate with good fruit & texture and long grippy finish, got some years to go and will provide much enjoyment for a relative song - 17+ David July 2011
Ch Beaumont, Haut-Medoc 2000
This wine surprised & excelled - quite lovely, elegant flavoursome, elegant and restrained, better than Parker's 87 rating and still with life ahead of it David July 2011
Lafon-Rochet, St Estephe 2000 (2008 EP R278)
In spite of 3+ hours decanting it’s still not ready, big bold and grippy a beauty.David July 2011
Klein Constantia Cabernet Sauvignon, Constantia - R145
This cab was brilliant - lean layers of fruit, good restraint, persistent and long finish David July 2010
Ashborne Red, Walker Bay 2007 - R385
Clear and beautiful, like Portuguese Garnets, smells like strawberry dough, and blue berry muffins, delicate spice, black pepper and a touch of nut meg. The palate follows through from the nose with a savory element of cured pork and earthiness; it has a centered strength of flavor tightly packed and dissolves slowly into your saliva releasing floral tones of roses and violets. It’s extremely smooth, delicate and oh so feminine. Tessa July 20111
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 2010 - R277
cream of sweet corn, toasted acorns and buttered toast mingled together with lime and faint pear. Very tight on the palate with an extreem of lemon freshness a bright acidity and lingering dry minerality, elegant and textured, its way too young to drink as all the promise in the nose will come through over time. It has a strong personality of both vintage and place. Tessa July 2011
Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Coastal Region 2010 - R121
nose comes through with bold layers of white pear, tropical notes of melon and orange zest essence and a slight redutivity, there is a savoury component of smocked beef and corriander seeds, the palete follows from the nose but is warped up tightly waiting for time to set it free, it has a full spriny dense mouth feel with a taughtness induced by the acidity. Decanting will benifit for drinking now, cellaring will unvaile a promising metamorphasis. Tessa July 2011
Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol 1967 R1300
A slight ullage just below the neck, otherwise the bottle was in great condition. 1967 was a large crop, a good but not fantastic vintage. The nose initially was rather mute, but it was still quite distinctive and clear. After 30min in the decanter, there was more depth, ample leather, spice and touch of mint. After an hour this faded to honey, tea leaf and nuts. The palate was quite simple, well defined and pure with moderate length and an obvious grip. Stately, mature Pomerol. Delicious.
Roland 16.5/20 July
Zonnebloem Cabernet Sauvignon 1966 (375ml) R250
A perfect half bottle with no ullage revealed a massive gooey sweet-fruited wine of opulence and glee. A slightly porty, oxidative note shows the difference to the elegant VCC. The palate chunky and sweet fruited, with soft and savoury tannins. It doesn’t have the acidic burn that many of the 80s SA wines have and is quite remarkable for 45 years!
Roland 16/20 July
Chateau Clerc Milon, Pauillac 1995 - approx R750
Clerc Milon is owned by Mouton Rothschild but is made in a more tempered style. This is textbook Pauillac at its peak of maturity which used to represent great value, but now demands high prices. Tight, elegant and brooding on the nose, it opened up to velvety tannins, fine black fruit and spice. A typical liner Cabernet structure, a hint of greenery and ultra-refined finish. So suave! Drink now to 2020
Roland 18/20 July
Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere, St Emilion 1995 - approx R800
A complete contrast to the Clerc Milon. St Emilion’s Merlot outfit is riper, more lush in fruit with a savoury spectrum. The palate is sweeter, a little more modern with softer, crunchy and round tannins. Meaty and morish on the finish which is long and very satisfying. Drink now to 2016
Roland 18/20 July
Domaine Grand Veneur, Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, Rhone 2008 - R250
A blend of 50% Clairette, 30% Roussanne, and 20% Grenache Blanc from the more difficult 2008 vintage. This gives more acidity, elegance and fineness enough though it’s still a big fatty wine with oodles of depth and layers of floral and meaty flavours. The balanced and textured palate which finishes with fantastic length really shows its fancy address. Drink now to 2016. A true bargain.
Roland 17/20 July
Badenhorst Secateurs Red, Swartland 2010 - R68
This has to be the most delicious, easy drinking and yet exciting bottle of wine I have tasted from South Africa. It has the brightness of fruit one fines in Tuscany or the Southern Rhone, along with ample purity and sweet fruit. Soft, succulent and sappy.
Roland 16/20 July
Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage Blanc, Rhone 2009 - R220
A blend of Marsanne and Roussanne. 2009 is quite an opulent and ripe vintage and this shows quite a forward nature. This, like the Chateauneuf, should be served closer to room temperature to show its full aromas. The finish has layers of honey, waxy and orange rind notes. Long and quite decadent.
Roland 17/20 July
La Tour Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan 2001 - R655
Quintessential Gravesque notes of earth, clay and leather strewn together with black berries. Tremendously structured but delicate, like a male ballerina with an impressive posture holding up his partner doing a spin. So classic and classy with the finest tannins. Long, savoury and seamless. Delicious. It will last another decade as well. Only 2000 case were made, but sadly this label was discontinued in 2005 by the Dillons. As from 2006 the grapes are used for La Mission Haut Brion. A much more expensive wine...
Roland 18/20 June
Chamonix Chardonnay 2009, Franschhoek - R100
Much more open and ready than the reserve which is very steely and taught. A lovely mix of limes and pears with sweet fruit and a touch of butter. Should develop another few years, as Chamonix wines always do, but it offers ample enjoyment now.
Roland 16.5/20 June
After being opend for 5 days in the fridge, the wine was completely at ease, balanced and delicious. This rewards another point. 17.5/20!
Lagrange, St Julien 2001 - R815 (2005) and R475.91 (2010 En-primeur)
This is why we love Bordeaux, a balanced, elegant and well-mannered wine, 10 years old on it's plateau of maturity (and likely to remain so for another decade or more), deep sparkling red, classic cassis cigar box nose and lovely long precise palate, nothing showy, just honest claret. David - 17/20 June (got a 90 Parker rating, June 2004)
Mullineux Family Wines, White 2008, Swartland - R156 (2010)
Fat aromatic waxy luscious with loads of chenin character and fresh acidity on the very long finish, pale gold with some honeyed chenin fragrance but it is in the mouth that this wine scores
David 17 - June
Badenhorst Secateurs Chenin Blanc Swartland 2010 – R56
This wine is literally a smoking gun as the small cloud of Co2 puffed from the bottle on cracking the screw cap, it is indeed a cracker full of petillant, the classic characters of Chenin Blanc shines through so brightly you might need to drink this wine with sunny’s on. Stone fruit, yellow peach skin, yellow granola, wet wool and gun smoke……some may say there is something wrong with this wine, that secondary fermentation is about to begin, I say balls its delicious, and full of Hootspa. Perfect as your house white. Drink now- Tessa June 2011
Perdeberg Chenin Blanc Reserve Agter Paarl 2009 – (2010 - R38)
a bright clean well-behaved text-book chenin, doing and showing all the right things expected from it's colour, nose and palate, bit too stereotyped actually but does have a lovely (and character-saving) fresh zippy long finish, 16- drink soon David June 2011
KWV Roodeberg 2003
from a good vintage for red wines, good colour with no sign of ageing, dusty nose and soft fullish flavours (no indication of cultivars on the back label, likely Shiraz-rich) with a modicum of grip, very commercial style but few negatives and likely as good as it is going to get, pull the cork and enjoy or glug it with a braai - - - say 15 David June 2011
Boplaas Vintage Tawny Port 1997 - R150 from the winery
This is the best port I tasted in a weekend at Calitzdorp. Whilst Tawny can be an unbalanced blend of sweet young ruby and rancio, nutty solero wine, this is exquisitely balanced and pure. Deep, exotic and alluring with raisins, rum and cream. All finished with nuts and spice. So long and graceful.
Roland 18.5/20 June 2011
Buitenverwagting Christine Constantia 2003 (2007 – R260)
this is my kind of SA Cabernet (can't find the composition, reckon mostly CabS & CabF) with a rich mouth-coating texture and good grippy length. Now about in it's prime, sparkling deep red colour, red fruit / cassis / cigar box nose and then this lovely palate, really no negatives, delicious 17½ David June 2011
Badenhorst Red Swartland 2006 - R245
Mostly Shiraz with a little bit of Mourverdre and Cinsaut, It was very berry, with generous bunches of sun-ripened Black and blue berries and the odd Cherry tomato in-between. The initial nose was tamed by wild flowers and black tea, it followed through to the palette, with a lighter than expected smooth entry, time brought out the structure its delicacy and feminine side. It pays to decant and wait. Tessa June 2011
Niepoort Vertento Tinto, Douro 2006 (2007 - R145)
this is a lot firmer than I recall from a couple of years back when it was relativly soft and approachable. Dark red, closed nose yielding only faint red fruits, plenty of structure & minerality, firmly fruited, plenty of grip, good length 16, interesting to see how this develops. David May 2011
Niepoort Redoma Reserva Branco, Douro 2006 - (2007 - R325 )
sophisticated & satisfying quality wine, pale gold, beautifully perfumed and a lovely balanced elegant fresh palate with loads of minerality & texture, well integrated fruit & oak and very long deep flavours, this has so much to offer, really singing now as it opens and warms up - 18 - can't believe it can get better than this! David May 2011
Ghislaine Barthod Bourgogne 2006, Burgundy - (Chambolle Musigny 2008 - R350)
This is pure Burgundy, albeit simple (but does come from Chambolle-Musigny vineyards), and can't be mistaken for anything else, bright sparkling red, fresh strawberry nose and beautiful clean lively crunchy fruit with a good grippy finish, satisfying 16+ David May 2011
Sierra Cantabria Gran Reserva 2004 Rioja – (arriving end June 2011)
tremendous wine but far from ready, very deep dark red and a most enticing nose of herbs & smoked meats, medium-bodied with ripe savoury fruit, very long with a tight tannic grip, this is complete and compelling and a great partner with rare roast lamb 17½ David May 2011
Margues de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay, Gran Reserva Especial 2001 Rioja
this is almost a religious experience, a grand combination of looks, smell & taste - - - deep deep sparkling red, a powerful nose outside of my experience - roasted plums and aged balsamic vinegar? - huge concentration in the mouth, deep intense flavours long and complex yet a lightness and freshness as it dance across the tongue, quite magnificent and only beginning, I suspect, to show it's stripes, another great partner with rare roast lamb, wow! 19+ David May 2011
Hillcrest ‘The Quarry’, Durbanville 2008 - R166
Mostly merlot and proud of it! Alongside Shannon Mount Bullet and perhaps Veenwouden, this must be the best Merlot in SA. You have to love the elegance and light body of this wine, combined with bright cherry fruit and Bordeaux fineness. It reminds of Chianti with its cool acidity, moderate alcohol (13%) and tangy edge. The hint of greenery, which is not the nasty kind, seems to fade away with a few days open and gathers more berry goodness. Already soft and sumptuous, it will age well for another 5 years or so.
Roland 17/20 May 2011
Kanonkop Paul Sauer 1999 Stellenbosch - R650
remarkably fine and a pleasant surprise to find this showing so well (after ± 2 hours decanted), deep sparkling colour with no sign of browning, subtle nose of Cab Franc (10%) with some 'buchu' & fynbos (that dispersed after a while) but it is in the mouth that this shines, deep rich flavours across the palate with lovely ripe 'crumbly' tannins, very long. This could easily be mistaken for a good classified Left Bank Bordeaux from a warm vintage like 2003, still sitting pretty on it's plateau of matuity after 12 years - 18+ David May 2011
Strandveld Adamastor 2008 Elim (2009 - R122)
This is the top cuvee with 56% Sauvignon Blanc and 44% barrel fermented & matured Semillon from Elim, good ripe figgy Sauvie flavours combined with flinty creaminess on the long expansive palate, still tight and demanding another couple ot years cellaring for the full flavours to develop - 16½ David May 2011
Mullineux Syrah 2009 Swartland – R195
Sparkling colour of deep dark plums and pronounced nose of the same, it is only medium bodied with clean exuberant plumy all-Syrah fruit, a lightness on the palate and grippy tannins at the end. The overall impression this wines gives is of perfume, purity of fruit and freshness, delicious now and much promise - 17+ David May 2011
Mullineux White 2010 Swartland - R156
this is a weighty, well-textured and full-flavoured Chenin, Clairette and Viognier blend with a powerful peachy nose. Loads of extract, plenty of acid,just lacks a lightness on the palate - 16,5 David
May 2011
Kanonkop Pinotage 2001 Stellenbosch – R315
This 2001 Pinotage is drinking beautifully though reveals a little of the beast inside. Its flavour comes through with a stamp of intensity, floral, smoked beef, wild game, chocolate and damp earth...it is sleek and smooth with a rough edge, and all plaits together into a strong finish.
Drink now - Tessa May 2011
Lammershoek LAM 2010 Swartland - R61
Cool spearmint fog opening into yellow stone fruit, with a dry wool edge, slight nuttiness and lime cordial through the centre, this follows through on the palate. Entry is smooth with a lean density, it slips from smooth to a dusty sensation on the finish, a wine of simplistic and honest nature with an equally humble alcohol of 12,5%
Drink up to 3 years - Tessa May 2011
M Marengo Nebbiolo D'Alba, Piedmont Italy 2003 (2007 - R215)
From outside Barolo and from the 'hot' year (visited Marco Marengo in La Morra on 6 June 2003, already blazing hot), super ripe fruit, but not at all over-ripe, with a ripe tannic grip and good length, lacking the perfume and delicacy of the real Barolo but, nonetheless a lovely wine at a ridiculously low price
David 16.5/20 - May 2011
Chateau Figeac 1982, St Emilion, Bordeaux France - (2010 will be available en-primeur)
what a lovely surprise to find this bottle in pristine condition after critics comments 'approach with caution'. Sparkling deep red, beautifully perfumed with spice and mushrooms and a medium-bodied fine carressing elegant palate with cabernet sauvignon component very evident, not powerful but such lovely subtle flavours, tannins completely integrated but freshness from the residual acidity. Great bottle, this is quite delicious; reward for years of patience and good cellaring
David 19+/20 - May 2011
Chateau L'Arrosee 1986, St Emilion, Bordeaux France (2006 - R495)
Another pleasant surprise (after the Figeac 1982), beautiful deep colour with no sign of rim ageing, fairly muted dusty scented nose, nicely weighted quite delicate palate with well integrated fruit and tannin (perhaps lacking the CabS component), very elegant and ready, would be a pity to keep this much longer, not quite in the same class as the Figeac.
David 17.5/20 - May 2011
Chateau Gazin, Pomerol Bordeaux 2001 – (S/O awaiting 2010 en-primeur)
Wow! This exudes weight, even the glass feels weighty, very dark colour, deep dark plummy nose - what there is of it as still closed - then this dense big & weighty & very long chewy palate, serious flavours unfurl in the mouth but lots more to unfurl methinks over another decade, big potential.
David 18-/20 April 2011
Domaine Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone Villages ‘Les Champauvins’ 2008 – R110
This is made from a vineyard adjacent Chateauneuf-du-Pape and always punches above its weight. 2008 was a tough vintage in the Rhône and many of the top wines were declassified. A tight, classical wine with similar austerity to 2008s in Burgundy and Bordeaux. After a day it opened up however and the sweet Grenache fruit really shone. Provincial herbs and strawberry jam in quite a full bodied thick texture. Great value. Drink 2013-2016+
Roland 16/20 March 2011
Chateau Teyssier, St Emilion Grand Cru 2008 – R185
This is one of the largest St Emilion Grand Cru properties and the winery where Le Dome and all the Jonathan Maltus wines are made. By no means entry-level, it’s a long ageing, classical style wine especially in the 2008 vintage. A vintage characterized by high acid levels, dry tannin structures luckily curbed by some lush red berry fruit. The Teyssier is almost completely shutdown and didn’t even open much on the second day. Medium bodied and fresh with crumbly tannins, it’s wonderfully elegant and serious. Drink 2014 to 2020
Roland 16/20 March 2011
Chateau Laforge, St Emilion Grand Cru 2008 – R375
A full notch or two above the Teyssier, this is a blend of old vineyards in St Emillion. Immediately there is more polish and poise on the nose. Deep succulent raspberries and plums coat chalky tannins. Long, sexy and savoury with the opulent fruit allowing for younger drinking, it has the stuffing and balance for extreme ageing. No wonder Parker awards 92-94 points.
Interestingly and rather surprisingly this was a phenomenal match with sushi, all be if you use a good dunk of quality soy sauce (and sushi – I recommend Kyoto Gardens just off Kloof Street) and not too much wasabi! Drink 2014-2028
Roland 18/20 March 2011
Jayer Gilles, Cotes de Nuits Villages 2002 – (2007 – R480)
Jayer Gilles is the only super star of the Haut Cotes, over the ‘cote’ in the forest backwaters of Burgundy. He makes terrific Echezeaux and Nuits St George but is well known for his Haut Cotes wines. This has a good deal of new oak intertwined with farmyard and truffle notes showing some good complexity. Rich black fruits contrast some rusticity and rawness. It’s ready to drink but the Nuits St George like structure will allow further cellaring. Drink now to 2015
Roland 16/20 March 2011
Colmant Brut Reserve, Franschhoek NV - R117
This is my favourite Brut in South Africa and is the closest you will get to Champagne in my view. The nose is cool, crystalline and elegant; fine bready notes, green apples and perfume. The palate has fantastic precision and a fine mousse which makes for refreshing drinking. So delicious, it almost drinks itself. Roland 16.5/20 March 2011
Daniel Dampt Chablis 1er Cote de Lechet 2008 - R225
Chablis 2008 is a cracker vintage; there is usually good acidity in Chablis but 2008 has so much flavour, depth and richness which other vintages often lack. Very appley and floral on the nose with a defined acidic frame and punchy mid-palate. The finish has a somewhat nutty complexity which seems to last minutes. Utterly delicious. Lechet is usually more floral and less weight than Vaillons and more defined than Les Lys, the other premier crus that we import.
The experience is like taking your first sea swim of the summer; saline, super fresh and completely rewarding. Drink now to 2014+
Roland 17/20 March 2011
Chapoutier ‘Occultum Lapidem’ 2006, Languedoc Roussillon (2008 – R145)
This was the first vintage we imported from Chapoutier's Languedoc estate, and since it’s been a big seller. An equal blend of Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre. The nose bursts with opulent fruit, guided by the strawberry and raspberry only Grenache can deliver. Carignan gives the inky, almost graphite-like, fine structure and the Mourvedre adds a savoury complexity and dryness on the finish. Quite Chateauneuf du Pape like, starting to gain some real complexity. Delicious and a tremendous bargain. Drink now to 2018
Roland 17/20 March 2010
Ployez Jaquemart d'Harbonville Premier Cru 1990, Champagne - R 1,063
Leesy, greenish notes, nuts and bread on the nose. No malolactic fermentation gives a massively acidic structure which is rather piercing. This was one of Tom Stevenson’s wines of the vintage, but it doesn’t seem to have matured well and I can’t see the acidity ever integrating. Roland 16/20 (1990 horizontal Aubergine 18 March 2011)
Gosset Celebris 1990 - R 1,1 48
A real classic Champagne in their house style, though the Celebris is an extra brut. Soy sauce, brioche and limes on the nose lead to a fine, dry palate with ample freshness and palate weight. The complete opposite to the Dom Ruinart with more freshness and poise, gaining excellent complexity with age. Roland 18/20 Drink now to 2020 (1990 horizontal Aubergine 18 March 2011)
Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle 1990 - R 2,210
A mushroom, funky note on the nose questioned whether it was slightly corked, but this cleared slowly in the glass. Oyster shell, citrus, oats and creamy notes showed ample complexity. Wide, fat and long with the finish offering excellent freshness. Delicious!
Roland 18/20 Drink now to 2020 (1990 horizontal Aubergine 18 March 2011)
Salon Le Mesnil 1990 - R 4,250
Fine, delicate and feminine, this could get lost in amongst the fat, bold champagnes. Limey, fine-tuned palate with a firm acidity and yeasty, layered palate. Exquisite balance and poise leading to a long refined finish. Not quite ready to be fully enjoyed, it will age for decades…
Roland 18+/20 Drink 2015 to 2030 (1990 horizontal Aubergine 18 March 2011)
Dom Ruinart 1990 - R 1,275
This was the most disappointing of the lineup with the sweetness on the palate ruining the balance and definition. Quite flabby and round in an intense almost new world style.
I had the 1998 recently which showed much more definition and style.Roland 16/20 (1990 horizontal Aubergine 18 March 2011)
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 1990 R2210
The wine of the evening for most of the tasters, it showed lots of ‘good evolution’ and buckets of flavour. Some sherry notes on the nose with toasted nuts and honey. Not too far from a modern Montrachet with bubbles. Massively long, full and complex, so compelling and so enjoyable!
Roland 19/20 Drink now (1990 horizontal Aubergine 18 March 2011)
Dom Perignon Blanc 1990 - Approx R2500
The house style is really evident here where fruit plays a primary role in a sweet, floral bouquet. A controversial wine which was loved by some and criticized by others. There is no doubt it has the finest mousse of all the wines. Fat, full, rich and profound, tightly wound and backward. Slightly burnt notes, caramel and sweet fruit shows its layered flavours. The youngest of all the wines and one that needs time for better balance and poise.
Roland 18+/20 Drink 2015-2035 (1990 horizontal Aubergine 18 March 2011)
Pol Roger Winston Churchill 1990 R 3,230
Very rarely have I drunk a wine and thought it was perfect. Romanee Conti 1995, Coche Dury 1990, Mascarello 1982, Rayas 1990, Huet 1947 immediately come to mind. This wine has the deepest most luxurious and fine nose with floral, soy, macadamia nuts and freshly baked bread notes on the nose, changing every time you go can back to it. The palate tight, limey and toasty, with a medium body and slight caramel finish. Perfectly balanced, with flavours that evolve on your palate for minutes. An absolute treat and amazing way to end off a fantastic evening on the Aubergine veranda on a balmy Cape Town evening.
Roland 20/20 Drink now to 2030 (1990 horizontal Aubergine 18 March 2011)
Maison Joseph Drouhin Cote de Beaune Villages 2008, Burgundy – R155
This is the bargain of the vintage, show perfect Burgundy traits at the lower end. Bright berry fruits, dried mushrooms and a mineral finish. It shows none of the acidic profile of some of the more traditional growers. Delicious now, drink to 2014
Roland 16/20 March
Masion Joseph Drouhin Meursault, Burgundy 2008 – R300
Comparing St Aubin, Puligy, Chassagne and Meursault all from Drouhin, I found the Meursault the most enjoyable in its youth (as it usually is). It shows typical ‘stuck match’ and peach pip notes along with oats and limes on the palate. Long, deep and complex. Great value for top-end white Burgundy.
Roland 17/20 Drink Now to 2016 March
Stark-Conde Pepin Pinot Noir, Elgin – R90
10yr old vines form the heights of Elgin, its nose is youthful a touch raw, with perfumed potpourri, sprinkles of smoked bacon and bursting raspberries. Accompanied with wet clay undertones, a little more time will bring these into harmony. Nose follows through to palate, with a lean light entry, great purity of flavors and a sweet sour finish of raspberry pie…..as the wine opens up there is a stronger influence of savory character…Meaty, coriander seed. At this price point the wine is a steal.Decant now drink till 2014
Tessa March 2011
Chateau Gigault Cuvee Viva, Cotes de Blaye 2003 - N/A
This is gorgeous from a less auspicious address and a problematic vintage (other than in the northern Medoc), deep colour, plump generous fruit and mouthcoating tannins, no negatives on this and no reason to wait, this is fat sexy Bordeaux ripe for enjoyment. We sold this en-primeur at approx R175/bottle
David 17/20 March 2011
Niepoort Ubuntu, Douro 2007 - R50
Has to be the best value on our list at R50/btl, sparkling red, medium-bodied, fresh exhuberant fruit and tight mineral-laden palate, ideal partner to almost any food, including fish, drink slightly chilled.
David 16/20 March 2011
Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes 2003 375ml - R1600
The hottest Bordeaux vintage ever produced many soppy wines without much interest. But Yquem in 2003 is as special as ever and continues in its name as the greatest sweet wine in the world. Quite fat, but with huge botrytis depth and a gleaming structure. Open, rich and succulent showing all its colours at just 8 years. It will unlikely get much better, but I reckon it will maintain this plateau for a few decades.
Roland 19/20 March 2011
Huet Le Mont Demi-Sec Vouvray 1981 NA
Slightly yellow, not quite golden. Nose is intriguing with some honey, damp straw, nuts and green apple. Served cold, it’s lean and delicate, but the warmer it got in the glass, the drier and richer it seemed. Finally rather unctuous and emphatic in the glass.
Roland 17.5/20 March 2011
Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac Leognan Rouge 2000 – R895
This needed lots of decanting to finally show all its flavours, indicating it is not quite at its plateau. Rather savoury with a hint of oak and a rustic structure. Dense fruit, quite chunky and long. Excellent with rack of Lamb.
Roland 17/20 March 2011
Chateau Yon Figeac, St Emilion 2000 - R400
Oozing Bordeaux class, velvety, delicious and a wholesome sheen. It was declassified from the Premier Grand Cru’s in St Emilion and thus is priced very low. We have sold literally a 100 cases of this delicious wine that continues to be a bargain buy. It is ready to drink but will keep another decade from this great vintage.
Roland 18/20 March 2011
Chateau Sociando Mallet, Medoc 2004 - R375
Lovely feral, savoury and blackberry blaze. Medium bodied with graphite, some dried herbs and snippet for chocolate. Completely classic, benchmark claret from a benchmark vintage. This offers super drinking now and will keep another decade.
Roland 16.5/20 March 2011
Chateau Rabaud-Promis, Sauternes 2001 - NA
Completely ready, golden and open. Massive intensity of flavour, honey, and botrytis depth. Quite thick and oily with a low acidity and stodgey finish. Always a good value Sauternes, especially from this great vintage.
Roland 16.5/20 March 2011
Teso La Monja Victorino, Toro, Spain 2007 – R350
This is the new venture from the Egurens that started Numanthia in Toro. It is similarly built, like a skyscraper: Inky, full-bodied, full-throttle and packed with fruit which covers the monstrous tannins. Yet so majestically elegant, silky and long. Drink in from 2015 or serve with a rare steak
Roland 17.5/20 March 2011
Niepoort & Sadie Cape Charme 2008 Swartland – R320
Initial nose rises from damp autumn leaves, a touch reductive, there is a live bloody essence with a pulse and a fruit freshness of citrus grapefruit and sour cherries, all in a light mist of braai smoke….blooming red roses, thin layers of black liquorices and a herbaceous Sage edge.
Vibrant fish flapping entry, following through from the nose, with flavor coming together and concentrating on the finish, delicate grape skin like tannin though not much extraction, tannin feels like mohair wool. Enough length to initiate a daydream!
100% drinkability now! But it has a bright future I will definitely be drinking this wine in 2016, 2018 - Tessa Feb 2011
Lafon-Rochet, St Estephe 2000 France - Approx R550
Good, satifying, quality northern Medoc at a reasonable price. Dense purple colour, herbaceous nose, quite full-bodied & well-fruited, big mid-palate and lots of length, expected St Estephe grip, another decade ahead with ease.
David 17/20 Feb 2011
Sadie Family Palladius 2008 Swartland - R420
Beautiful wine, if you like the Rhone-style whites, just masses of complex bold flavours and nuances, honey & peaches, effortless almost oily in the mouth, goes on forever and what a great food match! Loads of acid for keeping, if you can resist.
David 18/20 Feb 2011
Sadie Family Columella 2006 Swartland - R650
Magnificent, big bold and still very youthful wine, deep dark colour (still a hint of purple), pronounced nose - with ripe figs! - huge complex rich flavours, long enticing palate, only just beginning to strut it's stuff (24 hours aeration worked wonders). Must hold this for another 5 years to allow full complexity to develop
David 18½/20 Feb 2011
Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais Villages 2009 France – R90
What is regarded as the best vintage in living memory, it’s great to test what the gamay grape is capable of. Gone are the frivolous wines of the past, even at entry level the 2009 is gorgeous and textured. Amazing exploding red berry fruits, mineral notes with a dry light-bodied palate. Fun now, it will be better with a few years in bottle. Chill and drink whenever.
Roland 15/20 Feb 2011
Terre Nere Etna Rosato 2009 Italy – R120
Terre Nere are the most exciting wines we have imported, grown from 40 to 140 year old vines on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna. This is really interesting; quite pale, almost dull in colour with even a slight browning on the rim. Textured, grippy palate, hint on honey and red fruits with a savoury finish. It’s great to drink a rosé that not just free run juice, or acid soup…
Roland 15.5/20 Feb 2011
The Three Foxes Sangiovese 2008 Darling – R100
We offered this last year and it was really worth a revisit as being the best Sangio in the country. One of our clients even complained how good it was and that I was trying to convert him to local wines! It’s not serious, but lean and savoury with buckets of jammy sangiovese sweet-sour fruit. Long, elegant and traditional with dry Italian tannins. Delicious.
Roland 17/20 Feb 2011
Rudera Robusto Chenin Blanc 2002 – N/A
This should be labeled Demi-sec (off-dry). Don’t know why its not as there is plenty of sugar, around 11 grams per liter I reckon. But it works beautifully; hint of botrytis, tangerine, honey, long and fresh, not cloying. There is enough freshness to keep it, but it won’t get better and offers wonderful drinking now. Keep your whites!
Roland 16/20 Feb 2011
Meerendal Blanc de Blanc 2007 – Approx R240
A new bubbles from Meerendal that smells and tastes expensive! Oak, brioche and rich citrus in a very noveau champagne-like style; very fine, complex and fresh. The oak dominates at the moment and there is some residual sugar, but I think it will integrate in the future. Seriously good.
Roland 17.5/20 Feb 2011